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| | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 46 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 46 | The '59 fleetside is scary on the freeway,aiming it down the road is a process of herding rather than steering.......so i got new tie rod ends. Its 4WD with running gear out of a '74 K10 P/U(Dana 44) . I got all the bits from my local Napa store but they did not have any recommendations for the torque of the castle nuts on the tie rods.Also it seems as if I could remove both the "center link" assembly and the "drag link" assembly (both consist of two tie rods and a adjusting sleeve) and measure center to center on the studs, set up the new ones the same and reinstall and it would be more accurate than counting the number of turns into the sleeves(as someone suggested) as the new parts are not of the same manufacturer.If anyone out there has any thoughts, suggestions,specs, or ideas that would be great!!
Thanks - Jeff
220 - 221 whatever it takes
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,248 | 1975 Chilton Truck manual says to tighten tie rod ends nuts to 45 ftlbs on Chevy/GMC | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 46 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 46 | Thanks whitelightning,to the wrenches........
220 - 221 whatever it takes
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,191 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,191 | Your best bet is to set the toe-in adjustment. After any tie-rod replacement, getting them back to the same spot is pretty tough. All you need for a adjustment is two people and a tape measure.
Start by jacking up the front axle and paint a line down the center of the tires all the way around. Once it drys a bit, spin the tire and use a sharp tool and mark a straight line thru the paint. You need to hold it steady when scribing the mark. Brace it on a box or something.
Next let the truck back down on the ground and roll it backwards at leat 10 feet, then pull forwards 10 feet. Try not to touch the brakes when stopping. Slowly let it come to a stop. The brakes could pull it out of its normal position.
Third, measure the distance from side to side at the back of the tires. Use the witness makes you just scribed. Write down the measurement and go to the front and do the same. The front should be a 1/16" to 1/8" less. Measure up from the ground at the half way point of the tire.
These steps will get you real close, so you are not fighting it atleast. You should get it to a alignment shop after you replace all thats needed. The toe-in adjustment will make the most difference when driving, the camber/caster may not have any affect on you four wheel drive.
Joe | | |
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