The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 3/4-ton rims

Over the years there have been quite a few posts about 8-hole rims for an AD 3/4-ton. I've never come across anything that seemed to fix the problem if a guy wanted to get rid of the split rims and go to something more modern that would still allow for original hubcaps. I recall a post several years ago about using washers behind the rims and the problems that created. I was just looking in the LMC catalog, though, and see where they advertise chrome rims now for a '53 and they mention an 8-hole rim for a 3/4-ton, but they don't list an item number. Has anyone had any luck finding modern rims built for an AD truck, specifically a 3/4-ton 8-hole? At this point I'm looking for options whether it means chrome rims or not. I'd still like to use my old hubcaps though.

There is a tech tip floating around somewhere on the web that talks about mounting hubcap clips to '70s Fjord wheels. I have a set of them, but as the truck isn't moving anytime soon, it doesn't really need new radials yet.

Here's Smokey Culver's how-to on mounting hubcap clips on newer 8 lug rims http://www.speedprint.com/Deves50/HubcapClips.htm

There have been several previous discussions on your actual rim options.

We have discussed this at length. I have 16" rims from a 91 GM on the rear of my 52 with 7.50R16 tires, there is about 1" clearance to the frame. To use them on the front I need to make 2" spacers that bolt onto the hub and have studs in the spacer for the wheel. That's the only way to set the wheel out if it takes more than 1/4", otherwise the shear forces on the studs are too much.

I learned a thing or two on the hubcap clips. When I checked the geometry, I used a 3/16 spacer between the clip and the rim. I also drilled and tapped the rim, used JBWeld between the clip, spacer and rim, also used red loctite on the bolt.

I also made the mistake of drilling out the hole in the clip to use a 1/4" cap screw. Problem was the steel is a high temper, I ended up using a cobalt bit and sharpening it between each hole. Next time I will use a 3/16 bolt.

I also had to purchase some large acorn lug nuts. The newer rims are made for 9/16 studs, the older trucks have 1/2" studs.

A wheel shop such as Stockton Wheel can remove the rim portion of a wheel and replace it with a tubeless type rim.

I've paraphrased what I wrote to Stockton wheel this morning (October 06 2004):

<font color=blue>I have a Chevrolet truck with split rim wheels. I would like to retain the stock appearance of the wheels (wheel centers and hubcaps) but eliminate the split rims.

• Can you remove the split rim from my wheel and install a tubeless style wheel rim?
• Can this be done with 15" and 16" wheels too?
• If you do provide this service, is the wheel painted or powder coated as part of the service?

</font> Here was the response: I actually requested a price but none was given.

Thanks for the replies, guys. However, I'm still curious as to whether or not anyone has dealt with LMC and tried the rims they advertise. Like I said, they don't list an item or stock number, but they do advertise rims for a '47-'53 3/4-ton. I would think these would need no modification. Of course, if you wanted to add the hubcaps, the tips you gave are helpful. I'm frustrated by the fact that no one to this point seems to make an after-market rim that fits a 3/4-ton without making modifications and would allow us to get away from the problems associated with split rims. If LMC has these, I'm interested in knowing more about what they have. I was hoping someone here had bought them and could give a first-hand account of whether they are worth the investment. If no one has tried them, I'll make that contact and see what they have to offer. Thanks.

Just be cautious in dealing with LMC. I have some friends who swear by them, others who swear at them.

Norse,
I have been cruising the Stockton Wheel for some time now, but have not actually corresponded with them on wheels for my 3/4 ton. They show in their light truck and heavy truck wheels a 20 series steel wheel 15x4 to 17x9, 8 hole with any backspacing you want, powder coated one of 4 colors listed in their list (no prices shown). They also show a 22 series with the same options. I have not taken the plunge and called them, but I am getting mighty close. I am tired of wrestling with those safety rims. We dont have a pick and pull near here to look for **** wheels with < 4" backspacing, so that may be my only option.
Ralph

Stockton just quoted me $145 each for 15x8's for Series 20 wheels.

http://www.stocktonwheel.com/heavy_duty_wheels.htm

One other solution that I have considered, but not done is welding the lock ring in place. You couldn't afford to pay for it, but you could weld the inside of the rim and weld up the stem hole. Drill a hole for a modern stem and apply a good sealer. My tire guy said stretching a radial over the rim would not be a problem.

Someone, on another truck board, just got his 15" 8-lug rims back from Stockton - they look great, and can now run radials.

I have four of these wheels, tires on two installed on the front. They clear the tie rod by about 1/4 inch. The original hubcaps don't quite fit flush with the inner circle, so I might modify my caps (the inner rim of the cap holds the outer rim about 1/4 inch away from the wheel). The wheels were in stock at Kal Tire in Edmonton, $80 Cdn each, so you should be able to find them anywhere. They are rated at 3500 lb, so I'm not overly worried about their strength. My truck will be a driver, but not a workhorse.

http://aftermarket.hayes-lemmerz.com/html/conventional.html

item 109291T

this looks like a reasonable option. I wonder if some aftermarket babymoon caps would fit these? No Chevrolet script, but a nice set of plain chrome ones might look good. How are you planning to modify your caps........ just grind off some of the inner lip so they fit flush???