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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 70
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 70
I just got the rubber strips that go inside the "track" inside the cab at the door openings. What is the easiest way to install these? Should I just start at one end and slide them in, or "shoe horn them in with a screwdriver? Any better ideas are appreciated.

Thanks!


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 582
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 582
MJ;
Do a search on this subject. There is a lot of information and suggestions. The gasketing seals you are speaking of are called a windlace. There are two different types but as you stated, you should have a track in your later model. Be prepared to use a lot of lubricant but the biggest help you can do is to use a wide flat blade screwdriver to "open" up the tracks. Then you need to scour out the tracks with the screwdriver blade or other suitable instrument to remove any old dirt or other crap that will hinder your replacement seal. Then, with the windlace, start at one end (I started at the rear of the door frame) and pulllllll it around using lots of the lubricant. If it slips out of the track, close that section up a bit with a light hammer blow. Just enough to snug it but not impede its progress. Be patient and you'll get it done.


Country Roads, West (By God) Virginia
http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 70
M
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
M Offline
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 70
Thanks a lot Geezer,

That worked like a charm. I now need to install the horizontal window felts inside the window trim. I got the staples out and need to decide if screws are the way to go. (I did a search like you said and found some discussions on the topic). My new ones aren't curved like the originals, but I imagine they'll work. Will this keep the rain out of the bottom of my door?


1953 Chevy 1/2-Ton 3100 5-Window
1937 Chevy 1/2-Ton
1970 Chevelle
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 582
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 582
It's been a while since I did my felts but I believe that I pulled the staples, cleaned up the surfaces well and used construction adhesive form Lowe's to glue them back on. Put spring loaded clamps all along the trim, cleaned up any ooze that came out under the clamp pressure and left them alone for a week. Worked like a charm and no screws involved. Rain will still get in the bottom of your door. You have drain holes in the bottom of the door itself so make sure that they are clear. Before I put my plates and cardboard covers back on my doors I sprayed the crap out of them with rust preventative just to keep it at bay but then my truck is garaged.


Country Roads, West (By God) Virginia
http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Another helpful hint on the windlace installation. Cut a piece about an inch long and run it through the track. Then you can easily tell where the track needs to be spread.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
Or you can do something like this if you’ve a mind to. That is if you want to do it the hard way and keep it original.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2654795910098611668GrAeDg
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,271
A
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
A Offline
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,271
I just put new door windlace in my 54 ... and then removed it and sent the truck off to the painter's. When it comes back from paint, I'll be installing the windlace again.

It wasn't as difficult as I thought it was gonna be!

[b]Here\'s[/b] My Pics and Explanations


~~ Alan Horvath
1954 Chevy Pickup
Singing his praises in the
Passing Lane

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