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| | | Forums66 Topics128,083 Posts1,055,967 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 20 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 20 | Does anybody know how to remove the entire bench seat frame in a '49 3100, without destroying it in the process? I saw the online manual on adjustments, seat removal, etc., but 0 on the frame removal itself. Need to get it out to repair floor and in-cab fuel tank. Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 | It's fairly easy. The first step is to get the seat back out of the way, there are three screws along the frame at the top.
Next take out the bottom of the seat.
Next there are a couple of bolts in each of the front corners of the seatframe/adjustment tracks that hold them to the 'riser' which is welded to the floor of the cab.
Finally there are a copule of bolts in the on either rear corners of the seat base.
Once you get the back and bottom cushion out of the way you can probably figure it out yourself by just looking at it.
I suggest wearing gloves and a mask, and having a shop vac ready when you get the seats and tank out, there are stories about what you'll probably find there! I found the original key to the ignition with the knock out still in place. Guess the owner dropped it behind the seat and it fell behind the tank! Most likely you'll find mouse droppings, dust, dirt, bugs...
'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 20 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 20 | Thanks, I'll be able to get at the frame sooner than I thought, but it's the "riser" that I really need to remove. Just split the welds and repair any holes created? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 454 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 454 | Basically, the "riser" provides significant structural stability to the cab. If you do need to remove it, you will need to weld in some temporary additional supports for the cab or you might experience "oil canning".
Jeff Nelson
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin "Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest." - Mark Twain
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 20 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2006 Posts: 20 | Thanks Jeff, something told me this was a significant removal, I appreciate your cautionary reply. Tomo | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 | Several of the vendors offer 'streetrod' floor plans to replace where the riser is and make the whole thing flat rather than with the stock dip under the seat. Those kits might include support for the floor and cab since losing the riser reduces the amount of lateral reinforcement in the cab.
'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 100 Member | | Member Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 100 | Also you will have to unclamp the seatframe from the seat adjustment cables. There's a clamp that bolts to the cable in the middle of each side. The fore and aft seat adjuster in 49s only latches on the driver side. Both sides clamp to a cable that keeps them parallel running back and forth. If you decide to replace the cable (apparently you can get one with clamping at Home Depot), be sure it crosses along the back so that the outside cables left and right move in the same direction.
Never start vast projects with half vast ideas.
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