So, I am in southeast Michigan and thinking of a '64-'66 c10 project. As you might guess, most anything I find has substantial rust above and around the windshield. Couple questions for the group: Does the roof need to come off to replace those parts? Does any one supplier have all the parts to assemble a cab? I see assembled cabs available but comments I have read suggest that build quality isn't always great. Thanks for any thoughts!
That’s a tough question to answer. It depends on how bad your cab is rusted and how perfect you want everything to be. My 66 had damage on eyebrow area ad a little on the inner roof or ceiling area. I was able to bend my own patches & braze them in place. Worked out well for me. Windshield fit well with no leaks. OTOH, all those parts would have been available if I’d chose to replace them. Yes the roof most likely would have had to come off.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
how bad is the rest of the cab? If you end up having to buy multiple panels for floors, corners and vent areas and then do the eyebrows you are better off financially and emotionally with a better cab stripped down. Many in the middle of the country I suspect if you go on a search. That was an approach I took. The eyebrow / windshield area is a challenging fix unless you are real good at fixing.
~ HB 1966 Chevrolet K-10 | Ghost: formerly Flappy Fenders | In the Stovebolt Gallery 1962 Chevrolet C10 1962 Suburban
Yes, challenging fix takes it lightly. I did mine on the passenger side, remove windshield, got replacement pieces on line, replaced from rear view mirror to door post inside and out, was not easy but end result was good. Driver side is nowshowing it's age. Just a couple bubbles now.
Gramps...I'm a little late for the party but thought I would add my 2 cents. The roof job is not for the faint of heart however it can be done. My 66 had heavy rust in the area above the windshield both inside and out...plus the upper outer roof panel that had been cobbed up with fiberglass filler. I elected to do a full replacement (inside section, outside section plus the outer roof panel). I used a spotweld cutter and removed the 133 spotwelds holding the roof panel to the rain channel area and removed the roof, then using the replacement panels for templates cut out the areas that I intended to replace. An important note is to take careful measurements before hand to ensure that the windshield will fit once you are done. It is nice to have the roof cavity exposed as you can wire brush, treat, prime, paint, and add sound deadener to the cavity before you seal it back up. It is a matter of being patient and take careful measurements as you move forward. I have attached some pictures of my humble efforts...got my parts from Classicparts.com and they fit very well. Here is a video that I used for reference before starting my roof....hope it helps www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXNL_Vup_XE -Steve-
Last edited by klhansen; 10/22/20264:04 PM. Reason: Removed embedded videos