The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Steering Shaft

I'm not sure what sub forum this should go into so please move as appropriate.

I am considering shortening the steering shaft on my '50 3600 to move the steering wheel closer to the dash and further from the seat. It is fine as it is but more room between the seat and the wheel seems like it would improve things.

I do not want to change the steering wheel or the wheel to shaft components but would either cut and redo the steering box end or cut a section out of the middle but before I jump into the deep end I was wodnering what others may have done.

I know a lot of people change out the column and while that's a possibility if I go that route I will probably change the steering gear and add power steering (project scope explosion).

On my '37 I installed a '40 steering box to get away from the gear on gear original box for the newer style roller bearing gear box. The '40 has a different steering wheel and a taper mount. The wheel had too much offset for my liking.

I cut the top of the '37 shaft off to replace the top of the '40 so I could use the original '37 wheel and horn contact. I did a lot of measuring before cutting. Once cut I placed the shaft and the new end in a heavy piece of angle iron with plenty of clamps to hold it straight. I beveled each piece almost to a point so the weld would start in the center of the 3/4" shafts. I used a mig welder and put a heavy weld to hold it, loosened the clamps, rotated 1/2 way, and welded some more. After each weld I let it cool while still clamped in the angle iron. I cut the shaft so the weld would be just below the upper bearing, this would mean no grinding on the weld.
I was able to use the original outer tube, you will need to cut yours, so think about which end to cut. The '37 uses the tube to hold the upper bearing and the horn wire exits the lower end. If I was to cut one end, I would lean towards the gear box end, drilling a hole would be easy for the wire exit. I also had the main shaft out of the gear box.

I don't worry about the weld, I know it goes clear through the shaft, it was a clean weld with plenty of heat, its straight and works.

If you have doubts about welding have it done by someone who does it for a living, this is not the place you want to start welding. It needs to be straight!

If you need a little leg room, you can shorten the column mount at the dash, this will lift the wheel a little higher with out too much modifying.

Joe

Before cutting anything ....

Measure from the bottom of the steering wheel to the edge of the seat.

Loosen the bolts that attach the steering box to the frame.

Remove the dashboard to steering column hanger.

Hold the steering wheel up as far as it will go and measure from the bottom of the steering wheel again.

Did you gain enough space?

If yes, modify the column hanger, which is much easier than cutting the column.

The space I am looking for is not vertical but horizontal so I don't think the column hanger is the answer but I will check as it is much easier.

I can easily live with the wheel in its current location but there seems to be a lot of column on the driver side of the dash leading me to consider the possibility of moving the wheel forward. If I do pursue something it will be on my winter project list.

I'm confused. Do you mean you want something like a telescopic wheel except one that's in a fixed position closer to the dashboard?

Here's a telescoping "double D" shaft setup that can be spliced into the worm gear shaft by a VERY skilled welding shop. I'd suggest TIG welding. It will be much stronger and safer than any other way I can think of to shorten the shaft, and you can shorten the mast jacket a corresponding amount.

www.ebay.com/itm/227402359459?

Jerry

What are those zip ties for?

Borgeson makes those. Along with u-joints that attach by locking set screw incase welding is an issue.

Otto, my thought is to move the wheel closer to the dash so I guess that would be similar to a telescoping column.

HRL, thanks for the idea of a telescoping double D shaft.

Given that I am probably only talking about moving the wheel a few inches and the effort required to do so is fairly substantial I am probably going to drop it.

Thanks all for your input.

I'm accustomed to building dirt track race cars, so betting my driver's life on setscrews in a steering system isn't an option. "Build it three times as strong as you think it needs to be, and try not to be surprised when it breaks" has been the racer's approach for decades!
Jerry

Agreed Jerry! Build for the application!

Does remind me a a conversation I had when "restoring" the dragster for the car show circuit.

Race car guys: "Polish?!?! We'd tear down an engine between rounds, dirt and oil flying everywhere! We didn't polish or clean!!"

Me: "Guys, it ain't going racing no more. It is now eye candy with an occasional fire up for noise. No more 'hit the track in anger' stuff. Just look pretty for the crowds. Know your audience!"

They got it after a show or two.....

Definitely, Mark! On the truck pull circuit, we used to make "maximum for class" weight by tossing the tiedown chains and a few binders onto the passenger's side floor board! Like Smokey Yunick used to say- - - -"It's only cheatin' if ya get caught!" LOL!
Jerry