The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Distributor Slop

This is my first post. I have a question about play in the distributor shaft. First, the particulars:

1962 Chevy K10
235 cubic inch L-6
Pertronics electronic ignition

A few weeks ago, the engine began to gallop at idle. It idled so badly that it would die. I suspected idle mixture (after all, the gas tank is 64 years old, there must be some junk in there). I tried adjusting the idle mixture and removing the mixture screw and spraying carburetor cleaner into the port. Then I rebuilt the carburetor. None of that moved the needle.

I replaced the distributor cap, rotor and plugs. No help.

I want to check to see if the centrifugal advance weight springs are intact, but I thought I would inquire about slop in the distributor shaft, first. I can move the shaft "some" back and forth. I could put a dial indicator to it, but without some idea of tolerance, that won't be of much help. I have a [/i]1960 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual[i] (Chevrolet Motor Division) and the '60, '61, '62 supplement, but cannot find anything relating to my question.

Does anyone know how much play is tolerable for this distributor? Since I am not using points, what impact might that have on tolerances?

If anyone has wrestled through a similar scenario, please feel free to suggest other possible sources of the trouble.

They shouldn't have any noticeable play. Back in the day rebuild kits were offered, but I haven't seen that in a long time. A 1112403 Delco fits 1952-62. There are lots of them around, but if they weren't lubricated they will be in the same shape as yours. I just wiggled them. If they had slop, I threw them away. But I am almost 83 years old and don't do things very scientific. There are lots of after market distributors for sale at various vendors. I would think the electronic pickup would be more sensitive than points.

There are two kinds of Pertronix systems- - - - -the ones that have failed- - - -and the ones that are going to fail soon. There is a coil spring and a phenolic plastic button under the grease cup below the distributor body that puts pressure on the shaft and compensates for minor wear. Without the spring pressure of the points present, especially if the grease in the housing has solidified, the tension spring will not be able to compensate for wear, and the shaft will get sloppy. That will make the ignition timing between cylinders erratic, and the idle surge will happen. Use the Pertronix parts for sinkers the next time you go fishing!
Jerry

I had the same situation you describe on a '64 Galaxie. After "fixing" everything else with no success, I reached in and wiggled the dizzy. Yep. That's the problem.

I sent the original off to Cardone to be rebuilt. It's been working flawlessly for 15 years. I don't remember if they rebuilt my original or sent me one that had already been rebuilt but I know I sent the original to them to use as a core.

Rock Auto lists a Cardone reman one for your truck for $93.

Here's a discount code for 5% off at RockAuto. Enter it where it says "How Did You Hear About Us?"

348488184280276751

As Jerry accurately said, please avoid Pertronix or anything with that name on it. Horrible stuff and even with a worn out distributor you're better off with points...especially if you have the early Pertronix garbage. If you return to points, please get a good condenser. You can look under the swap meet to find a solution for that...

You guys that deal with the old distributors, what is the shaft diameter? Can you just install new bushings? I have replaced bushings in HEI and a couple of late 60's points units, but have not worked on the older ones with the spring and pad wiggle compensator. HEI and the point's were .490" diameter shafts.

Joe

There are no bushings- - - -the steel shaft runs directly against the cast iron housing. It's a little under 1/2", I believe. I machine the housing for a Torrington needle bearing, and press fit a hardened steel sleeve on the shaft. Either use the original grease cup to lube the top bearing, or install a 1/8" NPT grease fitting. One very small squirt of general purpose chassis grease once a year is plenty to keep the bearing lubed.

www.ebay.com/itm/386909509797?

Jerry

Thank you, everyone, for the great advice and input. You've given me some direction on things to try.

It would not be too hard to reinstall points and condenser. I might even have some new ones around here, someplace. Again, something to try before replacing the distributor.

Pertronix: The module has been in there for a decade or so. I have a unit in an old Ford tractor (6 volt, positive ground), too. Up to now, I've had no trouble with either of them. All that said, dropping back to points could give me a notion if the Pertronix system is the trouble -- and it would be a good thing to know.

Otto: Thank you for the tip in re: "Rock Auto," and the discount code. If it looks like I need to replace the distributor, I'll certainly look into that.

Thanks, again, everyone. This is a great site!

Most of the offshore made "new" distributors have an aluminum housing, not cast iron. If the steel shaft runs directly in the aluminum (not in brass bushings) it will wear out very quickly.
Jerry

Thank you for that information. I think I'll lean toward a remanufactured distributor if that proves necessary.