After many years of reading all the wheel posts and searching through many trucks in my area I’ve decided to go with new. Does anyone make 22.5 x8.25 10 hole hub piloted with the 7.25” bolt circle and 4.75” hub? All I see on Accuride is 11” bolt circle. Is complete custom by Stockton the only option?
Just a note that several web search attempts all come back saying that "Stockton Wheel" is permanently closed and out of business after the owners death.
The last post in their Stockton Wheel Face Book Page is dated May 9, 2023, and indicates content is no longer available.
Yes the web site is still up, but information posted in many other forums reported calls go to a Verizon phone message stating the numbers are out of service. There were also reports from back in 2024 that someone actually drove by the site and the building was vacant and signage removed.
The address listed for Stockton Wheel Service (648 W Fremont St. Stockton, CA) is the exact same address as Valley Wake Co., a boating sales outfit with pictures of the same building that housed Stockton Wheel, but their signage on the building.
I think it may be safe to say that Stockton Wheel is in fact "no more" as Chuck noted above. Why someone is keeping the web site active is anyone's guess???
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Lots of folks have attempted to find new replacement steel wheels over that last couple of years, most without much success, or having to spend a very large chunk of change. Loadmaster48's possible solution may be the way to go as possibly the most cost effective solution.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Standard 2 ton Chevy 10 hole hub pilot steel wheels. Glad I bought 'em a couple years ago, they're more now.. but anyway.. this seems to be the easy button you can hit, though it's a Buy once, Cry once situation.
I would do that in a heart beat - but I need the 7.25” bolt circle on the 4.25” hub. I couldn’t find a way to search their site for those- doubt they have them but I’ll call tomorrow.
There's one other potential wrinkle with these new wheels. Since the blanks are just regular 22.5" semi trailer wheels, they are actually 3/64" thicker hub flange than the GM ones. While positive in that they're rated for higher weight, it's a negative in that your lug studs might not be long enough. Another 'Bolter went this way, and wound up having custom lug studs made at a local shop. On my rig, the front ones are still usable however the rears will likely need some creativity in order to work. Modern rubber and safe rims are worth it, though.
Just ordered 4 for the back - excited to have this sorted after all these years of stressing over it. Every time I walk up to the truck I wonder if this is the time the rock-hard fifty year old tires are gone! My son is a CNC machinist, he’ll make the rings for me. I’ll deal with the lug issue when it comes. This truck is just used for low speed hauling around the place and a couple miles down the road for hay.
I'm wondering if you can shave off 3/64" off the hub flange? I considered those wheels for my '55, but wasn't sure of the fit. It looks close but it lists the outset at 144mm, that's 5.66" I measured my rims at about 3". My measurement might not be accurate, but that would move the front tires in 3" and I was concerned about clearance. My local tire shop suggested Radials with tubes. My wheels are Type AR, a three piece rim, so that's what we did. Smoother ride for sure.
That would take care of the front, but on the rear there would still be the thickness of one rim extra. Unless a guy could machine the inside rim surface by 3/64" over the entire height of the hub so the wheel would recess onto it a little further.
One side back together for the moment. Here’s how the studs look before final torque. I don’t know that I’m too worried about that for the things I use this for. I do load it up but it’s all low speed and close to home. I don’t know that the clamping ring would be required with the new thicker wheels, but I need it to retain the hub rings.
You may need longer studs, you should have several threads showing beyond the lugnuts..
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The other side came out flush or even a little exposed thread on the stud. The nuts have been spun into the clamping ring over the years. I think I may countersink the holes on the ring on this side to get the same effect. I have to use the clamp ring to hold in place these hub rings.
I am open to correction, but I was operating under the assumption that the clamping ring wouldn’t be necessary on the thicker wheels- except in my application I need them to hold the hub rings in place.
Final thought on the shim rings.. could they be tack welded to the hub enough to hold them on? Then they'd center the wheel yet you wouldn't need the ring, or longer studs. I don't know if the rings are steel or aluminum tho.
