I came up with an opinion to replace the 6.50/7.50-20 dual 10 lug split rims, while using the same original hubs. I have researched a fair bit before posting this, and I haven't seen it anywhere. It's not for everyone, but I'm not sticking with the original look anyway. And it's only single wheel after... big single. Simply put, I cut the bead off the original rim and fitted it into a Dayton rim. Then it will be professionally welded. 😎 Actually the cut is ~2" from the bead, just at the lip. A person could cut the lip off too, in order to slide it further in to adjust the offset. I found the lip helped to center and square things up, even though they fit perfectly. And I'm happy with the off set... for now. It will work on the 10.00 Dayton. or I might go with an 11.00-22.5 on the rear. For the front I have a couple 255-55-20 that came off my wife's Ford Explorer. I also have a pair of 275-55-20 that I could put on the back if I can muster up more rims. I have two 22.5" rims and tires. My 10.00-20s are still a split ring setup using a tube. The 22.5 is better being a one piece tubeless set up. A lower profile 22.5 might look better?, but I'll use what I have for now. I'm still fighting with rusted on tires. Removing the front rims off the hubs was very difficult. I almost rage quit
There used to be a place in eastern Washington that did exactly this-you sent them your 20" FR5 widowmakers, and they cut the centers out and welded them into 22.5" rims so you had modern wheels that kept the original look. If they were still in business I'd do this with my old 20" rims, however as far as I know they aren't, so I just bought new 22.5" wheels. They're a little bit dorky looking, but take modern radial rubber and also won't randomly explode and kill me while I'm working on the rig :-)
There used to be a place in eastern Washington that did exactly this-you sent them your 20" FR5 widowmakers, and they cut the centers out and welded them into 22.5" rims so you had modern wheels that kept the original look. If they were still in business I'd do this with my old 20" rims, however as far as I know they aren't, so I just bought new 22.5" wheels. They're a little bit dorky looking, but take modern radial rubber and also won't randomly explode and kill me while I'm working on the rig :-)
Interesting. I did see a YouTube video where someone did something similar for a smaller truck. He cut the center out of both old and new, then squared up and welded them together.
The difference with my set-up is the whole 10 bolt, pilot hub rim fits nicely inside the Dayton rim and self centers on the lip. IE: No precision tools or guess work needed. Having said that, I might pull the the centers out an inch or two to get the backspacing more correct. (See picture) Or cut the lip off, slide the 10 hole further in, and flip it the way it was on originally. Also the donor Daytons are 9" rim so wider tires are required. I do like the tire options available in 20" more than the 22.5.
The 9" rim could be cut down to any width you want. Stockton Wheel Company has been around since 1883, I'm sure they can help build you a wheel to your exact specifications. I might be worth a call.
A much more budget friendly option would be a 19.5" wheel. There are a lot of radial tires available and the diameters are close to what your 20" tires are. I used a set of these on '58 1.5 ton.
Last edited by TUTS 59; 04/12/20261:16 PM. Reason: Add Images
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
A 19.5" tubeless tire has the same basic profile as an 18" tube type that was used on 1950s 1 ton dual rear wheel trucks. My 1959 3800 flatbed had 18" tube type wheels with 8 lug hubs. They're a little smaller than the 20" tube type tires used on the bigger rigs, but close. The19.5s with the 10 lug hubs are used on big motorhomes, so there are plenty of those tires available- - - -just a little pricey at times! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I came up with an opinion to replace the 6.50/7.50-20 dual 10 lug split rims, while using the same original hubs. I have researched a fair bit before posting this, and I haven't seen it anywhere. It's not for everyone, but I'm not sticking with the original look anyway. And it's only single wheel after... big single. Simply put, I cut the bead off the original rim and fitted it into a Dayton rim. Then it will be professionally welded. 😎 Actually the cut is ~2" from the bead, just at the lip. A person could cut the lip off too, in order to slide it further in to adjust the offset. I found the lip helped to center and square things up, even though they fit perfectly. And I'm happy with the off set... for now. It will work on the 10.00 Dayton. or I might go with an 11.00-22.5 on the rear. For the front I have a couple 255-55-20 that came off my wife's Ford Explorer. I also have a pair of 275-55-20 that I could put on the back if I can muster up more rims. I have two 22.5" rims and tires. My 10.00-20s are still a split ring setup using a tube. The 22.5 is better being a one piece tubeless set up. A lower profile 22.5 might look better?, but I'll use what I have for now. I'm still fighting with rusted on tires. Removing the front rims off the hubs was very difficult. I almost rage quit
I've actually considered this. It's still not out of the question either
To each his own, but when I removed my widowmakers I put 19.5 off a motor home on it. Many people like them on 1 tons I’m told but they look really small on my 2 ton. The 19.5 is 4” shorter than the 20” tire. I plan to go with 22.5 x9 if I can find 7 and there is a local shop who will cut out and swap the centers.
900R22.5 is approximately 38-3/8" height, 255/80R22.5 are 38-1/2" in height. About two inches taller than the 8.25-20s our rigs were always upgraded to versus the 7.50-20s Chevy put on in 1965. The extra height of the 22.5" solutions nets about 150 engine RPM less at highway speed. Not a huge difference, but not nothin' either. Right now I gotta spin the big Cadillac V8 at 3800RPM to go 65 miles an hour. After the taller tires and the 5.57:1 gear set I was lucky enough to find, that'll be down around 3200 which is just right for the 500. Will probably net me a mile or two to the gallon also, when I want to get somewhere at faster than 54mph.
The only downside to 900R22.5 or even moreso the 255/80R22.5, is both sizes are uncommon-the 255 size most so as it's only made by Michelin and each new one is around $800. I was patient enough to find all six for $100 apiece used, with reasonably modern date codes, lots of tread, no cracks or repairs.
Most 19.5" tires seem to top out around 34" in height, so on a two ton, that's gonna gear you pretty short.
I like this idea a lot. Going to start on it tomorrow. Thinking about maybe getting the 22.5 x 14 and running super singles. Of course for back space I’d have to cut to slide in. Do you have a picture of the other side of your wheel? I’m can’t quite picture it. Thanks.
