Following info from here, I bought a 292 two belt damper assembly so I could have 2 drive belts. So I'm getting ready to check fit and guess what, it don't fit!!!! It fits the crank, BUT the hub is too short meaning its going to go on the crank about a 1/2 in. to far, the belt sheave is going to hit the timing cover. Do I need a spacer, or do I have the wrong part? I haven't put it on, but the hub that goes on the crank is about a 1/2 in. shorter than the stock one.
Contact Victor Machinery Co. about a milling machine arbor spacer with a 1 1/4" inside diameter. Same size as a GMC crankshaft snout. It will be a snug slip fit on the crankshaft and the OD should be about right. If it's a little too big, a belt sander will take it down to an acceptable fit since it won't be running against the timing cover seal. They come in all sorts of thicknesses so you can adjust the position of the damper, and they already have a keyway broached into the inside diameter. Measure the difference in the snout length, and purchase one or more spacers to get the proper position for the belt sheaves.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
From the picture, it looks to me that if the spacer was long enough to align the sheave nearest the engine with the stock sheave the seal would be riding on the spacer instead of the hub.
As someone around here says, "measure twice".
Also, the Victor website says "Sorry, we're currently out of stock on this item."
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 06/30/20264:12 PM.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Thanks Jerry. Bill, at least now I know what I'm looking for. MSC Industrial Direct has them in various sizes. I'll have to get an accurate measurement today, but just by looking at it it's going to be real close to the seal running right on the mating area of the damper and spacer. Probably not a good situation. This engine has been a real pain. I just installed the cam and find out the holes in the cam gear are not big enough for a socket to fit through. My 1/4" one won't fit. A run to the hardware store to pickup a couple of socket head bolts. I could of pulled the cam and ground out the holes, but then you've got grinding crap all over newly greased parts??? And then the oil tube from the pump to the block. What a nightmare, but we finally got it. Jay D.
Last edited by Gdads51; 06/30/202610:25 PM. Reason: change original link to a "hotlink"
If the balancer/spacer joint ends up in the wrong place, put a Speedy-Sleeve on to bridge the gap. That will also tighten up the fit of the seal lip- - - - which is probably a good thing! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
looks like its going to take a 3/8 thick spacer should have one Thursday, i'll let you know how things go. i also found out that the crank snout in going to stick out of the front of the damper about 3/8". so another spacer will be needed there if one wants to use a bolt to hold it on. i doubt its going to be necessary as it looks like a tight press fit.
jay d - Maybe I'm not tracking on your info and thought process here, but adding a second spacer in front to allow the use of a damper securing bolt and washer, to keep everything where it should be, is very important IMHO. This fits into "an ounce of prevention can prevent a pound of pain" thinking in my mind.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
You need to figure a way to heat the damper and cool the crank before final install, you will get a much tighter fit than just driving it on. Dry ice and a oven will get it done.
I'd suggest doing a "shoeshine" polish on the crank snout, and drilling and tapping the crank for a balancer pusher, rather than trying to drive the balancer on. At one time, I was making and selling a drill/tap jig and a push tool, but it became very obvious that most of the people who bought my kit were unable to follow the 2-page, step by step instruction sheet I sent along with it. I finally got frustrated and quit, as I was barely breaking even on the thing anyway! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
THANKS Jerry, you jogged my mind. i have a length of grd8 all thread and a heavy duty Torrington bearing i used to put the fisher damper on my other 270. NOW I JUST NEED TO FIND IT!!!! Jay D.
Here's one similar to what I included in my kit, along with a length of 3/4" ACME all thread and a matching nut. The thread I used to drill and tap in the stovebolt Chevy crank snout was a 7/16-20, same as the center bolt on late model Chevy V8s.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
In the oven for 30 to 40 minutes at 225 is enough to slip it on a cold crank. Engines routinely run at those temps so no harm to the rubber. Damper Dud's who I bought my 250 damper from suggested those temps.
Here's one similar to what I included in my kit, along with a length of 3/4" ACME all thread and a matching nut. The thread I used to drill and tap in the stovebolt Chevy crank snout was a 7/16-20, same as the center bolt on late model Chevy V8s.
HERE IS A RUNDOWN of my installation, maybe it will help someone. DAMPER- P/N SK594014 i don't know if others are available with different length hubs or not. the hub is 3/8" to short so i ordered a spacer. SPACER-- MSC INDUSTRIAL P/N 8182248 1 1/4x3/8 a problem came up with this as the seal lip fit right on the seam of the spacer and the damper. i solved this with a speedy sleeve suggested by Jerry. SPEEDY SLEEVE-- SKF-99175 everything went together good, i drove the speedy sleeve on with a rubber mallet, i think a press would be better. i have one about 12 ft away. the damper went on smoothly with the tool ( shown in my other post). its just a length of 5/8 NF grd. 8 with a couple 5/8 nf grd8 hi-nuts and a Torrington bearing. i don't have the bearing part no. but jerry posted a link to one in this same thread. you'll also need some various washers and a spacer to push the damper past the end of the crank about 3/8" you may have to realine your fan pully by pressing the hub one way or another. i don't know for sure just where it lines up on the pully shaft. as i have a new water pump that didn't have a pully hub on it. i think its real close to the stock position. remember if you press on the pump pully hub remove the cover plate and back it up on the impeller shaft. here are some picts first picture is of the spacer and speedy sleeve installed on the damper.
