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#1606599 06/27/2026 11:41 AM
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'Bolter
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What is everybody using between the fenders and bed side when mounting? When I stripped the bed sides there was a heavy tar-like/rubber something or other there. I don't like the look of fender welting bead and am thinking of getting a super thin strip of butyl rubber like maybe some window flashing without the foil. Guess I could get the welt and cut the bead off, maybe that would be easier/better?

Thought I would see what others have done


Mason

1947 Chevy 3100
-57 Chevy 235
-95 S10 T5 Transmission
-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
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I did not use anything between. I also am not a fan of the fender welting bead and generally think that the welting tends to cause more problems tha it cures.


1949/50 3600 Project
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Like WICruiser, I didn't use anything between fenders and bed sides. When I took it apart, there didn't appear to be anything between them. There were some original paint drips between the gaps, too.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
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Renaissance Man
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If you have really straight bedsides (congratulations if you do) you don't need to use anything between the fenders and the bedsides.
Putting anything there would likely hold water which would not be a good thing.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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I got fender welt from Classic Parts and used it on my '46. I thought maybe it would cut down on any metal-to-metal squeaking. I also used a rubber/foam gasket between the running board and fender.
Attachments
Chevy Truck Fender Welt.jpg (46.27 KB, 166 downloads)
IMG_1090a.jpg (80.61 KB, 167 downloads)

Last edited by UtahYork; 06/28/2026 3:18 AM.

~ John in Utah
1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine
Here We Go
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UtahYork #1606763 06/30/2026 12:42 AM
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by WICruiser
I did not use anything between. I also am not a fan of the fender welting bead and generally think that the welting tends to cause more problems tha it cures.
Do you have any issues with squeaking between the two?

Originally Posted by klhansen
Like WICruiser, I didn't use anything between fenders and bed sides. When I took it apart, there didn't appear to be anything between them. There were some original paint drips between the gaps, too.
Wonder what the nasty tar was on mine?...looked like it was applied as a strip

Originally Posted by 52Carl
If you have really straight bedsides (congratulations if you do) you don't need to use anything between the fenders and the bedsides.
Putting anything there would likely hold water which would not be a good thing.
They're fairly straight, I patched the entire bedsides with new metal. Didn't think about it acting like a seal and holding water. Would definitely be bad news.

Originally Posted by UtahYork
I got fender welt from Classic Parts and used it on my '46. I thought maybe it would cut down on any metal-to-metal squeaking. I also used a rubber/foam gasket between the running board and fender.
I'm concerned about the squeaking too, maybe it won't be that bad without

Thank you all for the advice! I'll probably just mount them without anything.

Last edited by stlcardinalsguy; 06/30/2026 12:43 AM.

Mason

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-57 Chevy 235
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-97 Blazer 3.42 Rear End
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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As far as metal-to-metal noise, not that I can hear over all the other noises from an operating 70+ year old truck.
That stuff dripping between the bedsides and fenders was Omaha Orange, so couldn't be mistaken for nasty tar. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
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Insomniac
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VW Beetles used fender welting between the body and fenders so I used it; same stuff as in John's post. The black line looks good with the light blue fenders and box sides.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
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I agree with Kevin, I can not detect any metal to metal noise but there are a lot of other noise sources so it may be lost in the multitude. I really do not think that the fenders move relative to the box side in general operation.


1949/50 3600 Project
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'Bolter
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I have the fender welt ,but I used the rubber type not the upholstery type that is like a vinyl or plastic .the rubber was easy to form around the fenders.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
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'Bolter
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On my 66 short stepside I used rope style insulation. It’s like play dough . Comes in strips about the size of a pencil. I put two strips above the bolt holes & two below& just let it fill in any gaps as you tighten the bolts. It’s inexpensive & any hardware store will sell it. My bedsides & fenders were painted prior to install. Stuffs been around forever. When I worked as a flat rate mechanic in a Lincoln/Mercury dealership in the mid 60’s we used it then to seal up leaks in body seam joints or whatever.


1966 C-10 Short Stepside
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I would be careful using the house window stick on the flashing if that is what you’re referring to. I’m sure different brands or differently but Protecto wrap Will turn into a Tarry oozing out of the crack mess on your paint.


Larry
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If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.

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