What is everybody using between the fenders and bed side when mounting? When I stripped the bed sides there was a heavy tar-like/rubber something or other there. I don't like the look of fender welting bead and am thinking of getting a super thin strip of butyl rubber like maybe some window flashing without the foil. Guess I could get the welt and cut the bead off, maybe that would be easier/better?
I did not use anything between. I also am not a fan of the fender welting bead and generally think that the welting tends to cause more problems tha it cures.
Like WICruiser, I didn't use anything between fenders and bed sides. When I took it apart, there didn't appear to be anything between them. There were some original paint drips between the gaps, too.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you have really straight bedsides (congratulations if you do) you don't need to use anything between the fenders and the bedsides. Putting anything there would likely hold water which would not be a good thing.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I got fender welt from Classic Parts and used it on my '46. I thought maybe it would cut down on any metal-to-metal squeaking. I also used a rubber/foam gasket between the running board and fender.
Last edited by UtahYork; 06/28/20263:18 AM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
I did not use anything between. I also am not a fan of the fender welting bead and generally think that the welting tends to cause more problems tha it cures.
Do you have any issues with squeaking between the two?
Originally Posted by klhansen
Like WICruiser, I didn't use anything between fenders and bed sides. When I took it apart, there didn't appear to be anything between them. There were some original paint drips between the gaps, too.
Wonder what the nasty tar was on mine?...looked like it was applied as a strip
Originally Posted by 52Carl
If you have really straight bedsides (congratulations if you do) you don't need to use anything between the fenders and the bedsides. Putting anything there would likely hold water which would not be a good thing.
They're fairly straight, I patched the entire bedsides with new metal. Didn't think about it acting like a seal and holding water. Would definitely be bad news.
Originally Posted by UtahYork
I got fender welt from Classic Parts and used it on my '46. I thought maybe it would cut down on any metal-to-metal squeaking. I also used a rubber/foam gasket between the running board and fender.
I'm concerned about the squeaking too, maybe it won't be that bad without
Thank you all for the advice! I'll probably just mount them without anything.
Last edited by stlcardinalsguy; 06/30/202612:43 AM.
As far as metal-to-metal noise, not that I can hear over all the other noises from an operating 70+ year old truck. That stuff dripping between the bedsides and fenders was Omaha Orange, so couldn't be mistaken for nasty tar.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
VW Beetles used fender welting between the body and fenders so I used it; same stuff as in John's post. The black line looks good with the light blue fenders and box sides.
I agree with Kevin, I can not detect any metal to metal noise but there are a lot of other noise sources so it may be lost in the multitude. I really do not think that the fenders move relative to the box side in general operation.
I have the fender welt ,but I used the rubber type not the upholstery type that is like a vinyl or plastic .the rubber was easy to form around the fenders.
On my 66 short stepside I used rope style insulation. It’s like play dough . Comes in strips about the size of a pencil. I put two strips above the bolt holes & two below& just let it fill in any gaps as you tighten the bolts. It’s inexpensive & any hardware store will sell it. My bedsides & fenders were painted prior to install. Stuffs been around forever. When I worked as a flat rate mechanic in a Lincoln/Mercury dealership in the mid 60’s we used it then to seal up leaks in body seam joints or whatever.
1966 C-10 Short Stepside HiPo Step-by-step ~ and on-going resto build in the Project Journals
I would be careful using the house window stick on the flashing if that is what you’re referring to. I’m sure different brands or differently but Protecto wrap Will turn into a Tarry oozing out of the crack mess on your paint.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.