Bill - In case you didn't notice, John (Utah York) is running modern Radial LT215/85R16 tires on his rims. That size has been found to be about the nearest of the modern tires to equal the old tire tire diameters and stance. Keeps the truck looking like a truck, but with more modern handling and safety features. Lots of fellow Bolters have chosen that size for their 1/2 ton trucks, although brand is up to the buyers choice and pocket book depth.
Others should be along with more input on the wheel and tire suggestions.
BTW - Just my $.02 worth, but wait to buy your tires until after you've gotten the old ones removed from the wheels and inspected the wheels for condition to see if their up to snuff for new tires right away, or if they need some help getting there.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Thank you sir. The LT 215/85 R 16 are on there now. Date code is 1990. lol. The valve stem in the tube on one failed and the tire almost fell apart. The other 3 look great with air in them. I like the look of those and will probably go back with those. The guy at my local tire shop put a used tire on the rim for me. Not exactly the right size, but I can roll it around the shop and yard easy enough until proper replacement.
Thank you sir. Would it be your opinion to go with tubes if I don’t plan on sanding or painting rims? I honestly don’t know the pros or cons for either. I was surprised to see an inner tube in the tire. lol.
I also have the LT215R85 16 tires on my '49 3600, from LingLong and without tubes. Modern construction 16" trailer wheels. I concur with Gdad on the proper looks and would also mention that it matches the diameter of the OEM optional 17" tire that would have come on the truck. Helps a bit with highway speeds.
My '39 Packard uses modern, tubeless radials of the size discussed on the original 4 1/2" rims with no problems at all.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Please pay attention to the sizes (already mentioned here). Shorter and fatter tires mess with the nature of the steering system to varying degrees. And also pay attention to the area around the rim where the tire seals and also where the valve stem is installed. I'd sand/paint those if it were me doing it. If either of those areas are rusted, you can have slow leaks that will be irritating. It is common for the area where the valve stem is to be rusted/pitted and you can repair that with JB Weld once the rust and loose metal has been removed. My experience has been that tubes today are not anywhere as good as tubes of yesterday and could be a disappointment and constant expense. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
If you are still working on the truck, don't put new tires on it yet, wait till its road ready so you get the most use out of the date code. And check each date code before purchasing them, you don't want one old one thrown in the mix. If the valve stem holes are bad, have welder seal them up and drill new holes on the opposite sites. With a small round plug, a good TIG welder can make invisible.
Agree with Joe on verifying the date codes. Tell the tire salesman that you want "NEW" tires. Last winter I was getting new snow tires and they were made in 2023. I waited one week to get new tires.
Last edited by UtahYork; 05/17/20267:05 PM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!