Bare crimp connectors with shrink tubing over them. The crimp connectors with the plastic covering are junk, but you can cut the plastic covering off them and use them. Get a GOOD crimping tool.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Less labor would be to buy the connectors that already have the shrink insulation as part of them.
These also help to reduce blood pressure and frustration. I cant count how many times I've spliced or soldered 2 wires together and then saw my piece of heat shrink tubing sitting on the work bench. *^%9! Oh well, just take it apart, slip the tubing on and re-do the splice.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Been there, Done that. With more self-training, it happens less often.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I use the uninsulated butt splices and terminals with heat shrink over that. I like the way the uninsulated crimps work better than the insulated ones. The uninsulated connectors drive a dull spike into the connector for a better connection (first photo shows the crimper). Insulated connectors just crimp down on the wire like a vice and if you don’t apply enough force on the crimp, they will pull out fairly easily. Like Kevin said, more “self-training” on any of the different style connectors helps.
My latest favorites are open barrel connectors. They are for 16 gauge and smaller wire, but look like factory crimps. They also require a special crimper. This connector will also require a heat shrink.
Last edited by Phak1; 04/04/20261:35 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Working on school buses for 33 years, I have installed hundreds of them of all types and quality, most do the job they need to do. For my own stuff, I use uninsulated with shrink sleeve over them. The insulated sleeve type work OK but take up a lot room if you are doing a bundle of wires. You can stagger them out for less mass, but then you have a longer section of stiff wire. For trailer work, the insulated sleeve type are great, not really needed for under dash. The type Phil shows just above are good choice and won't make a huge bundle when done. If you are good at soldering, just solder the wires together and sleeve over them, this is a good method for really small wires. For bigger wires I will strip the plastic off cheap connectors and use the bare metal with solder with sleeving over them. I seldom crimp any of mine, and if i do its very carefully done so the wire is just held tight enough till I get solder in them. It keeps them straight and round for a better, more professional look.
Like Joe suggested, I've also just soldered wires together and used heat shrink over the joint. I would just fan out the strands a bit, push the wires together and twist the strands, then run a little solder on. That keeps the joint just barely larger in diameter than the original. I try to be sparing on the heat so as not to let solder wick up the wires under the insulation, softening that and making the wire stiffer than it should be.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.