The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Waveski, Otto Skorzeny, chuck2213), 70 guests, and 4 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,021
Posts1,055,357
Members48,420
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1601103 04/03/2026 3:04 PM
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 121
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 121
What type wire connectors is everyone using. Next week I will be installing a new universal 7 wire turn signal/flasher switch on my 1947 3100.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Bare crimp connectors with shrink tubing over them. The crimp connectors with the plastic covering are junk, but you can cut the plastic covering off them and use them. Get a GOOD crimping tool.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,249
Less labor would be to buy the connectors that already have the shrink insulation as part of them.
Attachments
shrinkconnector.jpg (23.07 KB, 107 downloads)

MNSmith #1601130 04/03/2026 9:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,436
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,436
Originally Posted by MNSmith
Less labor would be to buy the connectors that already have the shrink insulation as part of them.

These also help to reduce blood pressure and frustration. I cant count how many times I've spliced or soldered 2 wires together and then saw my piece of heat shrink tubing sitting on the work bench. *^%9! Oh well, just take it apart, slip the tubing on and re-do the splice.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Been there, Done that. dang
With more self-training, it happens less often. not me


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,472
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,472
I use the uninsulated butt splices and terminals with heat shrink over that. I like the way the uninsulated crimps work better than the insulated ones. The uninsulated connectors drive a dull spike into the connector for a better connection (first photo shows the crimper). Insulated connectors just crimp down on the wire like a vice and if you don’t apply enough force on the crimp, they will pull out fairly easily. Like Kevin said, more “self-training” on any of the different style connectors helps.

My latest favorites are open barrel connectors. They are for 16 gauge and smaller wire, but look like factory crimps. They also require a special crimper. This connector will also require a heat shrink.
Attachments
IMG_1226.jpeg (30.38 KB, 74 downloads)
Uninsulated crimper
IMG_1227.jpeg (126.69 KB, 70 downloads)
Open barrel connector

Last edited by Phak1; 04/04/2026 1:35 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,194
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,194
Working on school buses for 33 years, I have installed hundreds of them of all types and quality, most do the job they need to do. For my own stuff, I use uninsulated with shrink sleeve over them. The insulated sleeve type work OK but take up a lot room if you are doing a bundle of wires. You can stagger them out for less mass, but then you have a longer section of stiff wire. For trailer work, the insulated sleeve type are great, not really needed for under dash.
The type Phil shows just above are good choice and won't make a huge bundle when done. If you are good at soldering, just solder the wires together and sleeve over them, this is a good method for really small wires. For bigger wires I will strip the plastic off cheap connectors and use the bare metal with solder with sleeving over them. I seldom crimp any of mine, and if i do its very carefully done so the wire is just held tight enough till I get solder in them. It keeps them straight and round for a better, more professional look.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Like Joe suggested, I've also just soldered wires together and used heat shrink over the joint. I would just fan out the strands a bit, push the wires together and twist the strands, then run a little solder on. That keeps the joint just barely larger in diameter than the original. I try to be sparing on the heat so as not to let solder wick up the wires under the insulation, softening that and making the wire stiffer than it should be.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0