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Well, since I am now officially retired, I am taking on my next project.

I restored my 1953 5 window very close to original except a nice paint job and nice rims. The wife and I have very much enjoyed it going to fund raising car shows and the big one in south MS, Cruisin' the Coast. So this will be for her to take since she really enjoys going, too.

The one minute summary: it will be a '49 Suburban on a 1998 S10 frame keeping the 4.3 V6 rebuilt engine, updated interior, AC, PS, PB and a few other updates. Depending on the final stance on the s10 frame, I may lower it just a bit.

I purchased the vehicle from a fellow Stovebolter in Crystal River Florida -- 7.5 hr drive one way. Me and a couple guys drove down and I rented a large U-Haul to put all the pieces he had taken apart. Spent the night along the way back and made it back the next day.

The first picture (below) is how the previous owner got it on the trailer. The second picture is how I brought it back to MS still attached to a rotisserie.

Overall it looks pretty good and he had already done some body work in the usual rusted places.

More to come! 🚙

Sounds like a great project and what a find as a starting point (the rotisserie is a great bonus).

Yes WICruiser, the previous owner included several other items. A MiG welder, table top sandblaster a portable sandblaster a chop saw and ALOT of already purchased new parts for some I need and some I will sell.

Looks to be in great shape. Good score.👍 Thank you for posting the pics.

John

Gotta love a rare Burby! Nice score!

Glad to see the Burb found a new Stovebolter home. Looks like it was very much original and complete when the original Stovebolter brought it home. Is the Mrs taking a hands on approach to her truck, or just consulting/directing the project?

It would be interesting to know who the Stovebolter who previously owned it is, if they don't mind folks knowing. Kinda helps know and document the history of the truck in our community.

Gdads51, I think she will but you never know sometimes. Definitely at least consulting 🤣😂. I don’t think the PO would care, it was Oldngray

So I jumped pretty quick onto the frame after removing all the S10 parts. I cut all the S10 mounts off and ground everything smooth. I am using the Henry Panza kit for mounting the 49-53 short bed trucks. The burb is different after the 4 cab mounts. But it will not be a problem. The frame even though it was 1998 was not very rusty but after I mounted the Panza kit, I pulled all of them off and sanded and wire brushed the whole frame everywhere that was accessible. The front 2/3 of the frame is boxed so cleaning that inside was impossible, that area inside I used Eastwood rust encapsulator, they have pretty neat 2’ long spray nozzle that makes it pretty easy to coat. I used a borescope camera that hooks to my phone to check out the inside. After a couple of coats I probably have about 95% coverage. I used their same product on the exterior of the frame. Once that was completed I had previously had good experience with Martin Senor chassis black. You can touch up or partial recover an area and cannot see a dividing line. It is discontinued but replaced with an “all purpose” black. Seems like the same paint to me. Once that was completed I put all the Burb mounts back on after painting them with the same black. With the frame done except for the rear end (more later). I am using the 4.3 with a carburetor and decided to not use the fuel pump in the tank. I changed the tank and pickup to use an electric fuel pump and will mount it on the frame. I will redo the fuel line and return later. After changing the fuel tank I had to modify the radiator support using the info in the Henry Panza kit. The Panza kit is pretty nice, he has worked out all the geometry for assembling the parts. All the way to the inner fenders that will need to be notched. No welding required it all bolts on with grade 8 bolts and heavy brackets. More soon!

Thanks for the info Donald. I found "Oldngray" only had one active post back in early February of 2025 that left some hints about the truck and where it was at back then. Guessing he may have posted in the Swap meet back then, which would be long gone now even though the post count is still included.

Sounds like from his post he had already done much of the mechanical work with notes about engine rebuilt, trans and rearend already done on the chassis? Or was that on the original chassis and driveline stuff (pre-S10 chassis)?

One other thing he mentioned that caught my eye. He said its a "49 Clamshell carryall". I kinda thought that might be the case, seeing the first pic you posted, but couldn't tell for sure from the across the back side view.

Looking forward to following your new project.

Yep, he had done a lot on the original chassis and body some of which I will not be using. He and I did PM a good bit to work out the details. Yes it is a clamshell carryall. I am looking forward to this new challenge.

This looks like another adventure (your '53 half-ton) in the making. I bet the Panel & Burbs fellas will be following this.

Keep us posted.

Ok so here are some “before” pictures before I start my body work. The po did some repairs and some priming. I will be reworking some of it and continuing deeper where I feel the need to. I need to focus on the double wall areas from the doors to the back and door and window posts. I had my 53 dipped to kill the rust than EDP coated for the double wall in the back and the door posts but am not taking that approach this time. Please chime in on what you did and how comfortable you were with the results in this situation would be appreciated? I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Right now I am just thinking doing the same as the frame using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I saw a video of it and like products on rusty metal in the yard on the ground for a year or two and it seemed as good as anything.

Looks like a lot of space in there. Who needs a truck! 😉

UtahYork, yep the back is going to have updated seating to accommodate the wife driving and others including the 2 grand babies. I have to make sure the passenger seat hinges up for access to a couple more seats and probably a bench seat at the rear.

I’m delighted to invite you all to join me in extending a hearty Stovebolt welcome to Donald S., better known on the forum as SouthernTruck, as our lastest contributor to the Project Journal forum.

Many of you may already be familiar with Donald’s impressive work. He recently completed a stunning frame‑off restoration of a 1953 Chevy Five Window —a masterpiece that still turns heads in our Completed Journals section. If you haven’t yet taken a moment to admire his meticulous craftsmanship, I highly recommend a visit; it’s a true testament to the dedication and skill that define our community.

Donald’s passion for classic trucks continues to evolve. His latest project is a heartfelt build for his wife—a 1949 Chevrolet Suburban, transplanted onto a 1998 S‑10 frame. The build will retain the original 4.3‑L V6 (fully rebuilt), and a refreshed interior, modern air‑conditioning, power steering, power brakes, and several other thoughtful upgrades. It’s being prepared for fundraising car shows, where it will not only look spectacular but also serve a great cause.

Please join me in welcoming Donald to the Project Journal forum. His experience, enthusiasm, and generosity in sharing progress updates will undoubtedly enrich our discussions and inspire fellow members.

Welcome aboard, Donald! We’re thrilled to have you with us and can’t wait to follow every step of this exciting new journey.

Warm regards,
Phil

Moderator– Project Journal Forum

Finally getting started on the body checking what to cut out and or replace. Went thru all the holes on the firewall which ones I probably will use and the ones I won’t will get welded up. Once I rotated the body to get to the bottom, overall it looks pretty good. I have to rework some patches that were held on with aluminum rivets. That’s not going to work for me. Drilled those rivets out and plug welded the panel on. The front floor repair is also getting redone as the new metal is overlapped and welded with the existing and that’s not good enough either. I had to cut thru and follow the weld to bring it back to a flush welded seam. The wood floor looks good and had been preserved well by the PO. Once I get all the lower sheet metal work done I plan to undercoat everything. Be back soon!

Is that like a 5 million ton capacity body rotisserie? I mean, cause the Suburban body comes in at about 5 million and 1, no?

MNSmith, man I don’t know. I bought the burb with it attached. I’m guessing that body weights about 1k. What you think?

I shoulda weighed mine when I had the chance!

Nice picture!!

Not much exciting info 😂🤣. Just cutting out the bad metal and replacing. Plugged about 40 holes in the firewall that I won’t be utilizing this go round. I also removed the drivers seat riser so I could have a consistent floor all the way across. Removing all the under the wood floor braces to clean them up and paint with rust killer also replacing all the fasteners that are pretty rusty. I will add pictures as soon as I can figure out how to get my phone to keep them under 5 mb.

Before I found an app, I would email the photos to myself and it would reduce the size automatically.

Now I use an app called Photo Reducer on my iPhone. There are simular apps for android platforms.

Yep, I need to try the app. Thanks for the info, sometimes I can crop them and get them down under 5mb
Your emails suggestion worked easiest. Gave me several options for size.

Still cutting and replacing rusted metal. The drivers door sill had a good bit of rust but it was only about 2” from the the bottom so I just cut and replaced the bottom 2” of the whole thing. I have more fasteners to replace but need a deeper cutting wheel to reach inside of the channels under the floor. I am also wire brushing under each fastener before replacement and coating with rust encapsulator. I also removed the seat floor mount brackets plugged those holes with a dowel rod and wood glue. I will have to use wood filler inside on the floor since these were recessed.

Donald, It's great to watch your progress on the Burb.

Slow but sure. 😂🤣

Working on the drivers side outer cowl. Replacing the bottom 6” or so because too rusty. The PO drilled a row of holes up the center to repair an inward dent. Got that whole area pulled out flush and welded his holes up. I am doing away with the drivers side vent so filled that in and welded that up.

Cut out and replaced the bottom of the drivers side cowl. While I had it cut out coated everything I could get to inside with rust encapsulator.

I haven’t put any time into my Suburban project in the last 5 weeks. We have been to Texas and California both but are home now so I should get back on it after the 4th. Family time!! Stay tuned.

I’m still here, finally got back to cutting and welding patches. I ended up ordering the bottom patch panel between the door and the rear fender on the drivers side. I originally tried to just patch the original but it was too bad. I don’t have the picture of it but will get one. The PO did the other side and then added bondo. Yesterday I wire brushed all the bondo off and didn’t like what I had so I redid it too. I also patched the vent up by the windshield and got it all welded up. The wife will have A /C only so I decided to do away with it. The only things have left to do on the body is replace both inner cowls, (already have the new ones)and weld up the outside fuel fill opening since the S-10 is on the other side. Then I will move on to treating the inside double wall areas of the body with the rust encapsulator. Then come doors and fenders. They don’t seem to be bad but stay tuned. I will try to get more pictures.

I'm sad to see the cowl vent disappear. 😥

UtahYork, if it’s any consolation, I left it on my 53 truck! 🤣😂🤣

You’re making good progress and great looking work!

Worked yesterday on the PS inner cowl. I did not replace the whole cowl but cut along the inside radius of the inner and outer cowl part. This allowed me to clean and treat the rust on the inside flange before replacing the inner cowl. Both inner cowls were rusted thru along the flange. Next comes the DS inner cowl.

If your inner-to-outer cowl pieces were intact, you're doing good. Mine were completely rusted away. I was able to pull the front clip without removing any bolts where the fenders attach to the cowl.

Keep up the good work.

Kevin, yes they were in surprisingly good shape.

Got the fuel filler hole tacked in on the passenger side. Welded and ground the inner cowl. While I was there I decided to close up the floor battery opening. The battery will either be in a drop down type box or I will mount it under the hood. The S-10 frame goes right thru the battery area. So tomorrow will be the drivers side inner cowl.

I also started purchasing items that will be used on the finished Burb. I am using Aultman door latches. I have to make sure the wife doesn’t fall out( even though I have never had an issue on my 53). New brake booster and master cylinder and power windows.

You'll love the Altman latches. Mine are great. Only downside is you lose the ability to lock the door from the inside.

Bill, so you only can lock from the outside? How about the passenger door?

Neither will lock from the inside.

On my '52 (with push button outside opening on one side only) I bought a new push button lock and put it into the handle that needed a lock on the outside. Had a locksmith redo the pins in the new lock mechanism to match the original lock on the other side push button.

I don't remember the details on turn down handles with separate locks (pre-52), but I have a friend that has a '50 GMC with Altman latches. I know he can lock either door from the outside. I can call him for details tomorrow if you'd like me to.

Yep, that’s what I figured. I did the same on my 53 and had the key lock for both sides.

UT OH!! And I thought I was done with major sheet metal work. They must have had a leak at the top of the windshield that ran down that corner and rotted all the way to the radius. The good news I can buy that part.

That's why I was thinking about getting a new rubber windshield gasket. The old one is hard as rock and probably brittle.

Got my 4.3 back from the engine builder and since I am a sheet metal guy but not an engine builder I decided to have that done. Can’t wait to get it back on the frame to at least hear it run.

Been dividing my time between the rusted windshield area and reassembling the front of the engine so I can get the serpentine belts back on to crank it up. Next is the water pump as soon as I get the gaskets. I am not putting headers but stock exhaust manifolds that I have to clean up and paint with high temp paint. As far as the rusted a pillar and the area across the bottom I have most of that repaired. The inside corner radius was fun, but I made a nice corner template of heavy card stock to assure the fit. Last part to do is actually the upper corner of the dash. I will get a picture of it next week. I do have a couple pinholes at other locations along the windshield area that I need to check out and fix. These are not nearly as bad.

I know I said early on that the wife would be involved and she has. She has decided on a paint color that we saw while at SMN in Townsend. The burb may end up two tone with some pearl white from the bottom of the windows up. We’ll see. I may look for an app that can add these colors to easily visualize it.

So I got the bottom radius corner of the windshield frame rebuilt on the drivers side and doing the PS, it wasn’t as bad.

Good work! If the driver's side was worse than the passenger's, then it was pretty bad. But you've done a great job in fixing both. Fortunately my windshield area wasn't bad at all. I went back and looked at your previous pics and that was pretty ugly.

So…. Today I found a new spot that also needed repair. My original plan was to weld up the unused holes across the bottom of the dashboard. Half of the bottom front edge under the glove box had bondo and primer. I cut it out and partially welded the new metal back in.

I really appreciate those that have metal skills. Although no one might see that, the repair looks great. Just wondering how that rust happened? Was it water running down from the corner of the windshield?

It's to bad your not closer, I would trade an engine build for some metal work...

I would have taken that deal. Just got the 4.3 back for the cost of a V-8. 🤣. Honestly the price wasn’t bad, I had him supply a bunch of extras, carb, little cam, distributor and intake. Oh well I don’t feel like I can do it all.

A couple of days work here, got the bottom of the glove compartment done all ground flush and fixed. Plugged seems like 30 more holes under the dash and a few other pinholes and over ground thru spots. I pulled the front fenders out that the PO did some work on and found the flanges on both where they hit the cab rusted out. Cut those out and tack welded a new flange in place. Weld and grind them tomorrow. I wire brushed everywhere I could get inside the cab so I’m pretty much done with the inside. I decided to go ahead and spray a couple of coats of Eastwood encapsulator on the floor, up the kick panel, firewall and under the dash. Before carpet on the floor, my interior plan is to install the 3 boxes (from the PO ) of Killmat soundproofing everywhere I can. I used a similar product on my 53 and am happy with the sound deadening properties, especially opening and closing the doors.

I have been showing a friend your progress, he has zero motivation (not self winding). He was impressed, and should be.

I built him a nasty 292 some years back and it's still setting on the engine stand. He really liked the idea of a 4.3L.

Yep, I got a buddy here with a 1966 Goat that I can’t get to either move it forward or get rid of it. He is like more than half way done but put it down yrs ago. He needs the room in his shop.

Well I decided to document the sheet metal completion with a picture of the burb. Doesn’t look much different from when I brought it home. It definitely is!! Ha ha , a lot of hours. I moved to fixing all the rust on the fenders. I stripped the inside of the first rear fender removing undercoating, paint all the way to metal using a wire brush then lightly ran a DA sander with 120 paper. I am going to coat the insides with rust oleum rusty metal primer then do spray-on bed liner. Been researching running board patches verses replacement. It appears new metal replacements are not available. I only need the passenger side. The drivers side is definitely salvageable. I am checking into to splicing the back half of the truck running board, still checking unless someone has already done it?

Lookin’ good Donald! Great work!

Finished doing both front fenders the same way as the rear. Time to tackle the doors, overall they don’t look too bad. Had to remove the upper clamshell curved glass. The PO had worked and cleaned them up some.

So I finally did some physical comparison of the burb running boards compared to the trucks runnings board in hopes that I could use the pickup version as a patch for the burbs. Nope, so I ordered a patch panel from Jim Carter, maybe I can get enough of the bad out.

How bad are your running boards? Mine had wear thru and rust holes on top of most of the ribs so I used up a ton of welding wire closing them up. I also needed to replace the mount brackets and longitudinal reinforcement (available from Jim Carter.) It was lots of work, but I got it done, and covered up the blemishes with bedliner coating. This was before I knew that patch panels were available or I would have gone that route. It was also before a came across another frame with running boards, so I have a spare driver's side board. The passenger side on that was too far gone to be usable, but it yielded a patch that went to a fellow stovebolter.
Page 6 of my Flickr photo collection shows the restoration process of the running boards.

They probably aren’t that bad but have a lot of pitting and some thru holes scattered cross about 30” on the passenger side. You can see in the lower running board attached picture left end. Once I clean the PO primer and rust off and patch. I will probably fill the pits with metal set

Those look nearly pristine compared to mine. LOL! Those pit should be easy to patch.

Kevin, yes honestly they aren’t too bad. I have fixed way worse sheet metal already. I think the individual holes I will do like you did and probably weld them up and replace the larger rust thru spots with new metal. It may be a little while before I get back to them, out of town for now then need to look over the 53 to get ready for Cruisin the Coast that will occupy the first week in October. I will try to squeeze some time on them before Cruisin.

Worked on several items today. I needed to verify both of the rear fenders fit because I had slightly different dimensions at the rear of the body patches that were already done by the PO. They were PGE. I started cutting on the running board after getting my patch panel from Jim Carter. After wire brushing many bad spots I think it is going to require blasting to get a clear picture.

Worked on the upper clamshell door while waiting for my sandblasted running boards to get back. Not too bad. A few pinholes and part of the original metal was cut off by the door latch. Not sure why it was modified but I put it back on. I will mount the doors to test fit them. Probably not necessary since all is original but I’ll feel better. I also got to the lower door and worked on the back of it most of today with 2 patches at the bottom on one side and a few pinholes on the other side. The front of the other side was bondoed over, when I cleaned it off a patch is needed here too.

So today I finished the patch on the front of the lower clamshell door. Started looking at the DS/PS doors. The outside didn’t look too bad but has just a few pin holes. The inside is a different story. Both rusted inside bottoms looked similar. Picture below.

Got the engine and transmission mounted on my frame. Plus got most of the rust repair on the burb body, fenders and clamshell doors. Moving on!!

ZOOM ZOOM...

Lookin’ Good!

I started working on the inside doors to remove the bad rust after I received the patch panels for both doors.

Almost done the 2nd door too. I decided to remove the bottom hemmed flanges that hold the inner door panel patch on. They were pretty rusted and partially gone. Added a new flange and welded all 3 edges together.