On my '52 (with push button outside opening on one side only) I bought a new push button lock and put it into the handle that needed a lock on the outside. Had a locksmith redo the pins in the new lock mechanism to match the original lock on the other side push button.
I don't remember the details on turn down handles with separate locks (pre-52), but I have a friend that has a '50 GMC with Altman latches. I know he can lock either door from the outside. I can call him for details tomorrow if you'd like me to.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
UT OH!! And I thought I was done with major sheet metal work. They must have had a leak at the top of the windshield that ran down that corner and rotted all the way to the radius. The good news I can buy that part.
Got my 4.3 back from the engine builder and since I am a sheet metal guy but not an engine builder I decided to have that done. Can’t wait to get it back on the frame to at least hear it run.
Been dividing my time between the rusted windshield area and reassembling the front of the engine so I can get the serpentine belts back on to crank it up. Next is the water pump as soon as I get the gaskets. I am not putting headers but stock exhaust manifolds that I have to clean up and paint with high temp paint. As far as the rusted a pillar and the area across the bottom I have most of that repaired. The inside corner radius was fun, but I made a nice corner template of heavy card stock to assure the fit. Last part to do is actually the upper corner of the dash. I will get a picture of it next week. I do have a couple pinholes at other locations along the windshield area that I need to check out and fix. These are not nearly as bad.
I know I said early on that the wife would be involved and she has. She has decided on a paint color that we saw while at SMN in Townsend. The burb may end up two tone with some pearl white from the bottom of the windows up. We’ll see. I may look for an app that can add these colors to easily visualize it.
Good work! If the driver's side was worse than the passenger's, then it was pretty bad. But you've done a great job in fixing both. Fortunately my windshield area wasn't bad at all. I went back and looked at your previous pics and that was pretty ugly.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
So…. Today I found a new spot that also needed repair. My original plan was to weld up the unused holes across the bottom of the dashboard. Half of the bottom front edge under the glove box had bondo and primer. I cut it out and partially welded the new metal back in.
I really appreciate those that have metal skills. Although no one might see that, the repair looks great. Just wondering how that rust happened? Was it water running down from the corner of the windshield?
Last edited by UtahYork; 08/29/20261:37 PM.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
It's to bad your not closer, I would trade an engine build for some metal work...
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
I would have taken that deal. Just got the 4.3 back for the cost of a V-8. 🤣. Honestly the price wasn’t bad, I had him supply a bunch of extras, carb, little cam, distributor and intake. Oh well I don’t feel like I can do it all.
A couple of days work here, got the bottom of the glove compartment done all ground flush and fixed. Plugged seems like 30 more holes under the dash and a few other pinholes and over ground thru spots. I pulled the front fenders out that the PO did some work on and found the flanges on both where they hit the cab rusted out. Cut those out and tack welded a new flange in place. Weld and grind them tomorrow. I wire brushed everywhere I could get inside the cab so I’m pretty much done with the inside. I decided to go ahead and spray a couple of coats of Eastwood encapsulator on the floor, up the kick panel, firewall and under the dash. Before carpet on the floor, my interior plan is to install the 3 boxes (from the PO ) of Killmat soundproofing everywhere I can. I used a similar product on my 53 and am happy with the sound deadening properties, especially opening and closing the doors.
I have been showing a friend your progress, he has zero motivation (not self winding). He was impressed, and should be.
I built him a nasty 292 some years back and it's still setting on the engine stand. He really liked the idea of a 4.3L.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
Yep, I got a buddy here with a 1966 Goat that I can’t get to either move it forward or get rid of it. He is like more than half way done but put it down yrs ago. He needs the room in his shop.