The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Passenger hinged mirror arm

I have a 46 Chevy 1/2 ton truck. I originally ordered a pair of hinged mirror arms from Jim Carter. While putting on the drivers side I broke arm putting pin in. It was very tight going into place. I had to pound it in some. Passenger arm was back ordered for 1 1/2 years. I have it now. In the meantime I found an original hinged mirror arm for drivers door. I noticed that plate going into door was 1/8” thick and went right in. The reproduction arm plate is 3/16” which is why it was difficult to get in. So my question is if it matters that I file a 1/16” off the plate facing front of arm or the side facing rear of truck. Maybe it doesn’t matter either way. Seeing what others may have done. Thanks

Glen

Just a suggestion, but compare the original with the reproduction piece and see how they compare. Removing thickness on that tab from one side or the other may affect the depth of the hinge pin location, which you want to align so the tab slips in and pin still goes in without significant force.

That’s a great idea. I had put the original drivers on before I received the passenger arm due to it being on back order. If no ones has done this I will remove the drivers arm. Since it will be able to remove without to much difficulty.

Thanks, Glen

Ok, so I had ordered 2 reproduction mirrors and when putting pin in I broke the arm when going through bottom hole of drivers hinge. Passenger arm was back ordered. I found original mirror arm on eBay. Cleaned that up and painted. Went right in. It was then that I realized the repo tab was 3/16. Original is 1/8. Fast forward. I received the repo passenger arm a month ago. Wasn’t sure which side to file off. So I removed drivers arm and sized them up. Appears the side of tab facing box needed to be ground off. A 46 Chevy friend of mine told after braking first one it should go in with little difficulty. Which when the size is 1/8” it does😀. He also shared putting a bolt up the bottom to keep holes aligned. So happy.

Are you saying the mounting tabs on the reproduction part was too thick at 3/16" and need to be ground down to 1/8"? Not understanding "the side facing box"? I haven't installed my doors/mirrors yet.

My '37 broke one while driving, no idea why. It was reproduction aluminum. My hinges were pretty worn so that may have had something to do with it.

1st arm is new passenger arm (repo)
2nd arm is broken drivers arm (repo)
3rd arm is original steel from eBay

You may be able see on 1st I broke that removing it. I had to tap in with soft hammer. I did this removing it after I posted above post. I think it will still work arg. So I painted it anyways.

2nd is practice filing to get down to 1/8 inch. It went into drivers door no problem. So tab is with set screw hole.

3rd arm fit right in.

I first thought you had to unscrew hinge to get these arms in but you don’t need hinge off. They go on over hinge with pin removed. Let me know if this helps or want anymore pics

The last pics are drivers door with broken arm prcticing

OK - This helps. I was trying to figure out which surface you had to file. I'll watch for that when I get to my installation. Thanks.

My door gap was bigger than the one shown, so no problem slipping mine in. I rebuilt my drivers door hinge, since then the pin hasn't moved. Before it would work its way up as I drove. Never did figure out of the pins ever had a retainer or not, mine don't.

I have broke/replaced my drivers mirror and added a passenger side one on my 46, the repros needed to be reduced in thickness to fit.
Belt sander and file worked fine. Be sure your door stop device/check straps are in good order. A big wind gust when opening the door cost me 1 mirror, fortunately it broke and not the window glass.. that and I have extra paint and touch up guns also reduced the pain.
Chuck