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Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
Working on rehabing the electric wiper system on the truck. If you look at the first picture, I THINK there is a rubber bushing between the wiper arm (that connects to the wiper motor) and the stem that goes thru the opening in the cab. If you look at picture 2, it looks like I could put a screwdriver underneath where the wiper arm connects to the stem and just "pop the stem off of the wiper arm" and then be able to replace the rubber bushing.

If I pop the stem off, can I just press it back on after putting on a new rubber bushing?

Thanks
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IMG_9258.JPG (129.6 KB, 198 downloads)
IMG_9259.JPG (159.9 KB, 196 downloads)


1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,232
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,232
Can you pry the seal out without taking anything apart, then use a O-ring or cut some inner tube to replace it? Replacing rivets is sometimes a real job to get them right.

Last edited by Joe H; 12/27/2025 2:06 PM.
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
Joe;

I don't have a lot of mechanical experience to the point where I did not know I was looking at a rivet. I will examine more closely to see if I can make your recommenation work. Thanks for helping me see thru this challenge.


1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,506
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,506
I moved your thread into the Interiors forum, where it is more likely to get the attention it deserves.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,506
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,506
Unless the rubber is really deteriorated to the point of crumbling and falling out, it may be best to just leave it alone. My wipers are also from a 52, never been refurbed and they work fine.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,232
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,232
It's likely a damper and not any kind of seal, just something to keep the linkage from rattling around. Maybe a good soaking in oil to soften it up will be good enough.

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,150
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,150
Originally Posted by Joe H
Maybe a good soaking in oil to soften it up will be good enough.
Don't use oil on a rubber piece, that will accelerate deterioration. There are products available specifically for rubber.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,303
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,303
You might be able to stretch a small diameter o-ring into place that will fill the gap. It will need to be thin enough so as not to bind it up.
All that original material does is keep the rattling noise down. They still work even when that material gives out.
I just put some white lithium grease on the shaft and the articulating ball and call it good enough.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
Good advice. Thanks, Carl


1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
I dont know if you got this sorted out yet. If not, hopefully this will help.
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IMG_9258-edited.jpg (150.63 KB, 68 downloads)


WW2Chevy
1942 Chevrolet G506 1-1/2 ton 4x4 Army Cargo w/ winch

(Retro-roco)
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 197
Picture and comments help a great deal. Thanks.


1952 Chevy 3100
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
1
'Bolter
'Bolter
1 Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 56
Most wipers Ive seen, that knurled barrel that secures the wiper arm is held on with a friction fit pin. Yours appears to be more permanently affixed. It looks like the shaft has been peened to secure the barrel??


WW2Chevy
1942 Chevrolet G506 1-1/2 ton 4x4 Army Cargo w/ winch

(Retro-roco)

Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

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