The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop oil filter hose locations

Reinstalling the oil filter and wondering what hose goes where,when it was previously installed I do not think the hoses were in the correct location and is a AC filter.

what motor do you have?

If it's a straight six, here are the installation instructions for the AC oil filters.

Scroll down and look at Utaah York's picture of his newly rebuilt engine. The lines and their locations are easy to see.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...throttle-linkage-on-a-54-235#Post1594490

its a 57 235

It was removed due to lower oil pressure,I know I had it hooked up wrong and also had the wrong hoses with too large of internal passages and have ordered the correct hoses.

If you're running an original type canister filter, there's no "wrong" way to connect it, and the diameter of the lines is completely irrelevant. There's a 1/16" hole in the standpipe that controls oil flow (and pressure drop) no matter which way the lines are connected. The lines could be an inch in diameter with no pressure loss. The "normal" connection is the pressurized oil going into the side of the canister, and oil draining from the bottom port back into a port connected just above the oil pan. On 216s, the filter drain line mixes its oil with the supply line going through the water jacket to the rocker arms.
Jerry

What Jerry said about hoses. But there may or not be a small hole in the standpipe inside the filter canister.
You need what's called a "dole" fitting on the supply line to the hose. See the attached pic (standard fitting on the right, and dole fitting on the left.)

Use the correct size lines. Sometimes there is a hole in the standpipe, sometimes there is not. Sometimes the hole is the correct size, sometimes its not depending on the filter canaster. Sometimes there is a fitting with the restrictor, sometimes it has been removed. If you want to run a filter, take the time to set it up correctly. Its easy. Sometimes easy is good.

I have yet to see a Fram or AC filter housing without a restrictor orfice in the standpipe. That's how the filtered oil gets to the outlet port in the bottom of the housing. I wish someone would show me a picture of one of those standpipes without the flow control hole- - - -the engine life would be measured in minutes without it, due to lack of oil pressure to the bearings. It's usually at approximately the level of the inlet port in the side of the canister so the filter can't drain fully when the engine stops.
Jerry

I will look over the filter more closely and I do not remember having a dole fitting.

The instructions for the AC-650 filter that I posted above actually shows a dole fitting on both the inlet and outlet of the filter housing.

The filter does have those fittings but lost the fitting at the block but a trip to the junkyard saturday will fix that.

What diameter is the hole in a Dole fitting? I have threaded normal brass fittings for Holley carburetor jets which allow me to adjust oil flow (and pressure loss) for specific applications. Once the fitting is threaded for a jet, a set of wire drills allows for some pretty precise control of the flow rate.
Jerry

The two dole fittings I have are different sizes. The one pictured on the left has a 1/16" orifice and uses a captive ferrule nut (not the one pictured, but smaller). The one on the right has a 5/64" orifice and uses a standard compression fitting. Both are 1/8 NPT on the male ends.

In a little over 65 years of tinkering with engines of all types, I have never seen a bypass type filter canister that did not restrict oil flow by some means- - - - -usually with a small hole in the standpipe. One notable exception was a spin-on filter that was used on an American Motors flathead six- - - -the filter base had the restrictor built into it. The only time I've had to add a restriction was when using an aftermarket spin-on filter bracket in a bypass situation. That's where I used the Holley carburetor jet in the inlet fitting to the adapter. One restrictor is sufficient, no matter where it happens to get placed in the oil circuit- - - - -before, after, or in the filter element itself. Line diameter has no effect whatsoever on pressure.
Jerry

Just passing along what I saw on the SC-650 instructions that I have.
The S-2 filter that was on my truck does have an orifice in the standpipe and a dole fitting on the supply line. But physics says that each orifice will restrict flow somewhat. As long as there's a small flow thru the filter, and sufficient oil pressure showing on the gauge, everything will be fine. The main thing to avoid is so much flow thru the filter that the pressure to the bearings and the rest of the engine isn't sufficient to lube them.

I did examine the filter and found a small hole in that pipe in the middle,my engine is questionable and could use a crank kit so that is most likely the cause for the lower oil pressure. I just want to have all the right parts for when the new engine goes in and do not like not having a filter so it's going back on the present engine for now and transfer to the new engine when I get to doing it.

A quick fix that can improve oil pressure without a great deal of expense or labor time would be changing the connecting rod bearings "in the frame". Just drop the oil pan and swap out the bearing shells one at a time. No need pull the engine, or mess with the main bearings. Just be sure the replacement bearings are the proper size. I usually "shoeshine" the crankshaft journals with a long strip of cloth-backed sandpaper, followed by a thorough cleanup, to smooth out any roughness on the journals.
Jerry

I can feel grooves in the crank and is .020 under now plus I have a engine on the stand ready to go in when I get off my behind to do it,going to put another crank in it when its out to use in another project.

In that case, you're probably better off plugging the ports and running without a filter for the time being. An oil filter was optional, not a necessity, back when these rigs were new. The small volume the bypass system bleeds off can go to increasing oil pressure on what's basically a worn out engine, until you get time to make a swap. Running straight 30 or even 40 weight oil (not multi-grade) will also help take up the slack that worn bearings and a scored crankshaft creates, but that's like taking aspirin for the headache caused by a brain tumor!
Jerry

I just want to get all the correct parts for when the new engine goes in,snooped around the garage and found the fitting at the block so when the hoses arrive all the parts will go in a box and be ready for the new engine. I will put straight 30 in when I get it out in the spring as it might be some time before the new engine goes in.

Would it be better to run non detergent since it does not have a filter.

Oil filter is on and working,put straight 30 oil in it.

Only if you want massive amounts of sludge to build up in the crankcase. Detergent/dispersants hold microscopic dirt particles too small for a filter to trap in suspension, and they get drained out every oil change. I don't even run non detergent oil in a single cylinder lawn mower- - - -but it makes a pretty good lubricant for my drill press!
Jerry

It has straight 30 detergent,was looking at straight 40 but it was non detergent.

Here's SAE 40 straight weight detergent oil if you want to try a heavier viscosity:

www.wholesalemarine.com/shell-rotella-t1-40w-heavy-duty-conventional-diesel-motor-oil/?

Jerry