The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 Throttle Linkage on a '54 235??

My project came with a 1954 235 whose serial number says it was built for a car with a Powerglide.

The engine had 216 manifolds from 1940 on it. I have replaced the 216 manifolds with correct 1950s intake and exhaust units.

When I went to connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold (which doesn't point straight down as the 216 one did), it was running into the pivot that (I assume) was from the 1940 216 throttle set up.

I have done some searching of the web and see that the parts for the throttle on the 235 are different than the 216.

Is there an easy way to adapt the earlier parts to the later engine, or should I see if I can find a source for all the parts that won't work? (Anyone have a list of what parts will or won't work?)

I would assume that A LOT of folks have already run into this exact issue... (A search of the forum returns a lot of threads that don't relate to my issue.)

Suggestions?

I have attached a few photos and scans of what I have on my engine and what I found online.

Nick - I think the simplest solution might be to relocate the bell crank to the boss to the rear of your existing position. That moves the pivot assembly away from your exhaust port and pipe. IIRC, it should already be threaded. Then it's possibly just a matter of modifying the pedal to bellcrank and bellcank to carb throttle arm rods. The pedal to bellcrank rod would need to be shortened (some I think cut and welded the rod to fit the shorter span) and I think the bellcrank to carb rod might need to be bent to clear the manifold and operate the carb throttle arm through full range.

Using your existing bellcrank will keep the rod action going in the right direction and range of motion to operate the carb. It's just a matter of adjusting the rods to the new bell crank position.

Hope this is clearer than mud and helpful.

PS - The below picture was copied from this similar topic reply from fellow Bolter Wally / Montana that might help you visualize the relocation. The second pictures is another Bolters solution to your predicament.

If you change your bellcrank to one like the one in your top right picture you will have no problem.

Thanks!

That pivot location below the plug in the block is already threaded as Dan suggested it might be.

Somewhere I read that the forward pivot location might penetrate an oil or coolant gallery in the block. Is that correct? If so, what is suggested I do to ensure that is sealed when I move the pivot to the more aft position?

I will look for options for a bellcrank.

Thanks for the input!

A bit of Permatex #2 will seal it nicely.

My '60 235 is currently connected like this, but I ordered the clip that mounts to the oil pan so the spring would pull down. I did have to shorten the connecting rod from the pedal to the pivot. I cut to length and heated the end before bending the end at 90 degrees, then drilled a hole for a cotter pin. My current setup does allow for a smooth pedal right now and I'll see if having the spring pull straight down makes it better.

I have a ‘59 235 in my ‘52 3100 and used a complete 216 linkage by moving the pivot to the forward position and also purchased the spring clip for the oil pan. I didn’t need to alter the rod that attached to the gas pedal as it was from a 216.

Phil,

Did you have to modify the pivot? It seems that if I could shorten mine by about 1/4" it would clear the exhaust manifold/pipe flange.

No, I didn’t have to modify anything. I purchased from a fellow member, a complete 216 linkage, original to the ‘52 truck, from the carb to the gas pedal. The 216 linkage solved all of the issues with changing to a 235. The only thing I did was move the pivot forward. I believe the bell crank is the real issue. The 216 bell crank changes the rod angle to 90°. The 235 bell crank is a different angle.

When I bought my truck, the ‘59 235 was already installed with the original linkage that came with the 235, modified to make it “sort” of work. When the bell crank was at full throttle, it reached an over center position and would stick slightly, a condition I didn’t want to experience at full throttle and needed to be corrected.

I know many other ‘bolters adapted the 235 linkage to an AD truck, but you’ll have to modify several of its components.

I’ve included a few before and after photo to show the issue and solution.

Phil,

This is interesting. I was assuming that the pivot on my engine was standard for all 216's, but there might be more than one design that was used!

I have attached your photo showing the pivot and bellcrank you are using...and a photo of the pivot and bellcrank that are on my engine.

Since mine were on the engine when I purchased it, along with the 1940 intake and exhaust manifolds, I assumed that they were also parts that originally were on a 216. But it looks to me that the pivot on your engine doesn't extend as far from the block as the one that I have does.

Perhaps someone will see the two attached photos and be able to tell us the origin and, maybe even part numbers for the pivot and bellcrank on your engine.

That is interesting, I also assumed all 216’s had the same linkage setup. Even the bell cranks are different.

It all depends on the year.
The forged style is an earlier design then the stamped steel.

I believe the change was in 1949 when the exhaust manifold changed from dumping straight down to angled back.
That change was due to the steering component change in the new design starting in 1949 passenger cars.

There is a linkage with the shorter pivot that matches mine on eBay right now. Pricey but an option. Here is a link.

Phil,

It's nice to know that they are out there...but he sure is proud of it!

I did find a source for what looks to be a replacement for the pivot stud that I might pursue if I don't come across a used setup. https://www.ebay.com/itm/326255723757

Now, if I could find a source for a reasonably priced bellcrank of the style you (Phil - Phak1) in your photo, I should be able to proceed.

I’m wondering if you could shorten the nut and stud a little to get room?

You could always post in the Truck Parts Wanted Forum and maybe one of our members will help you out. That’s how I got mine

Pre '68 Dave,

It looks as though there might be just enough room to clear the exhaust if I shorten the threads a bit and use a thinner nut. Good suggestion!

That will be my next step if I can't find a setup like Phil has.