The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts C 60- How much different?

I had a 1959 C-60 single rear, two speed axle, 261 ( if I remember correctly) six. “Brunhilde” I did all of the brakes, wheels, tires and everything (except the vacuum windshield wiper motor. Never could find one). She went away because, at the time, I didn’t have a place for her. I know something about Big Bolts, but not enough.

I have found a 1971 grain truck, tandem dual C-60 with a 427, split rear, single screw, I think. Looks like air over hydraulic. Haven’t had a chance to drive it but am told it all works. Dump bed too. Tires fair. Little bit of rust in the rockers and floor, but cab is decent. They are asking 6k. I will offer 5.

What do I need to look for and watch out for before I buy ( or don’t)

I need to haul rock and dirt, among other things, it’s 25,500-32,000 GVWR. Do you Texas boys know if this will qualify for farm plates, non-cdl?

Feel free to opine!

If you don't get farm plates you will need a class A CDL. If you can quality for farm plates you can get by on a Class B. Do you qualify for a Texas AG/Timber number. If so you qualify you can register it as a farm truck. But keep in mind that if you are hauling anything for hire you will have to have a Class A CDL and register the vehicle with TXDoT. And if you drive a vehicle without a CDL when you are required to have a CDL, it is like driving with no license at all. The drag axle was probably added. The actual gross weight would be 34,000 for the tandem plus what you get on the steer. If you can't qualify for farm tags, I would be hesitant to buy it. I got my commercial license in Texas in 1959 and some time between the passage of the CDL requirement in 1986 and the implementation in 1992 I took a simple written test and my commercial license became an unrestricted CDL And I still have a CDL. But now applicants are required to go to driving school and I don't think you would consider it worth your while. Here are Texas farm vehicle requirements with links to answers to other questions you might have

LINK

Had my CDL in ‘77. Qualified on a Mack R700 quadriplex. Gave it up when they raised the prices because at the time I had absolutely no need for it. Wish I hadn’t. I do have AG/timber so I can get the plates. The question I was having, and which I can’t get DPS to answer is do I need the CDL even with farm plates. I looked up the data plate translation. It means that 25,500 is the GVWR. So far so good. Under 26,000 so it qualifies. But then GM added the 32,000 supposedly being the maximum weight at which the truck can safely operate. Does that little add-on push it over the CDL necessity line?

And, I still advice on what to look for in buying, keeping in mind it’s a 54 year old truck. I am not familiar with this braking system.

Click the link on my previous post. I think it didn't work and someone fixed it for me. If you have the AG/timber you shouldn't have any problems with farm plates. The GVW was probably cited as the truck left the factory. It probably has an Eaton 18,500 two speed. But adding the drag axle created a tandem and in Texas tandems themselves can go 34,000. But if you have farm plates and you are not hauling hazmat it makes no difference. Have you checked with your insurance agent. I have my fleet with Progressive and I have 5 personal vehicles with Farm bureau. I have some antique trucks with Haggerty. I have owned trucks in Texas all of my adult life and was a licensed salvage dealer for many years. I am still licensed to do DOT inspections. I don't think I have ever found any one anyone with the DPS that could answer questions. I always go to the regulations.

Here is the part from the link that should apply to you.

The few air/hydraulic rigs I've worked with have been a maintenance nightmare, and they weren't as old as the one you're looking at. I'd suggest that you do a thorough brake system inspection, and rebuild/replace anything even remotely suspicious, particularly flex lines front and rear.
Jerry