The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Caster Shims, Sway Bar, visor - 1954 3100

Hey all,

I have a 54 3100.

Caster Shims: Currently none so 0 camber caster. the steering righted it self w/ my 15” tires. Swapped out to 16” tires that are about 5” taller and the steering sucks. Bought some shims.

Q1. It seems a straightforward job. An suggestion/tricks for installing?

Q2. Front Sway Bar recommendations?


Q3. Anybody install a visor on 54 (one piece window). Not sure if its worth the money. Any opinions?


oops - Thanks HotRod for pointing out my oops between caster and camber

Camber on a straight axle is adjusted by bending the end of the axle up or down between the spring pad and the king pin. Maybe you're referring to "caster shims"?

oops yes

Installing Caster Shims is fairly easy if you have tools, tall jack stands, and a floor jack. You need the truck high enough for the axle to drop down and hang with out hitting the ground. The frame should be supported with jack stands, floor jack under the axle. Loosen the the u-bolt nuts on one side and lower the axle once the nuts are off. It's highly recommended to change u-bolts once they are removed due to stretch, they are a soft grade material. The caster shim goes between the axle mounting pad and the leaf spring with the thickest part of the shim at the back, ( thin end pointing towards front bumper ).
Be sure the leaf spring locating center pin aligns with the hole in the shim and the hole in the axle when going back together. Your shims should 1 3/4" wide.

This is a good time to wire brush the axle pad and clean out the mounting hole. While the axle is off the springs, check the spring bushings and shackles for any side to side or up & down movement. They should all be tight, well greased, and nuts snugged up. If you find loose bushing, nows the time to replace them.

Reinstall the u-bolts, jack up the axle to sandwich the shim between the spring and axle, tighten the u-bolt nuts, follow the recommended torque spec for the diameter of the u-bolt thread. Google bolt torque if you don't have a service manual.

Do both sides, drive a few days, then retorque the u-bolts.

Start out with 4 degree shims.

For a front sway bar, any of the venders will have one, they are all the same, look for a price you are willing to pay. Installing one is easy, most have detailed instructions included. While installing the caster shims is a good time to install the sway bar. Look for vintage truck specific venders.

Kilted54 - Just a note that your majority topic is primarily on your trucks front axle, springs and suspension questions, so the thread has been moved to the Driveline Forum for further discussion and help.

PS - The added question on installing a window visor needs to be posted as a new topic in the Paint and Body Shop.

Joe H,

Awesome guidance. Very detail: This was what I was hoping to find.

I know I would not have changes the ubolts let alone most everything else beyond dropping the axle and proper shim location.

BTW, i have 4deg shims! got that right!

The correct amount of caster depends on the vehicle, 4 degrees is just a good starting point. If the rear of the truck is a lot higher than the front, caster changes, same for different tire hight front and back. Add a load of sand in the back, caster changes, what you want is a decent driving truck with and with out a load so there is some compromise for each case.

Setting on level ground, smooth concrete like a garage floor works best, turn the steering wheel full left and full right, the front of the truck should lift up at each direction and fall back down when centered. The amount of lift is due to the caster shims. Too much caster and you are lifting the front each time you turn, too little and the truck won't return to straight ahead after making a turn and will feel very loose going down the road. You will be very tired of always making corrections to keep it straight. With too much caster, the steering will feel heavy going around corners and it will want to return to center as soon as you let it, but they will go straight.

Be sure to check the spring bushings, if they are worn, the whole axle assembly will always be shifting around. It won't hurt it to be a little loose, but with a good tight setup, your truck can drive just as good most modern trucks. Having the steering box adjusted correctly is your next step, start another thread or search for adjusting procedures on how it's done. Adjusting one is a DIY job if you follow the instructions, its well worth the time and effort, and in my opinion, one of the best things you can do for a better driving truck.

I put a fulton visor on my 53, and on my coe try find an original fulton,better fit than aftermarket

Joe H,

Again, well done. I am order a king pin set before I dig in as they are going and knock both of these task out at once. Thank you for you excellent help.

it was recommended that I put the visor question in another forum.

I appreciate the advice and face the “problem” of a one piece windshield in my 54. which will most likely push me to aftermarket pproduct

An anti-sway bar can be purchased from most of the usual restoration vendors for around $200 and includes all the mounting hardware and end links.