Slowly but surely making progress on my 235 swap. Planning to install new crank seal shortly. I've seen recommendations for a Best Gasket brand rubber seal might be best for my application. Do you guys concur? Any other suggestions? It's a 1959 engine.
The 59nengine should use the 2 piece rubber seal, not the rope. The dimensions of the groove in the block and cap changed somewhere around late 55 or 56. Jerry
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Can, or should, the joints on either type of seal be offset so as to not line up with the cap mating surface? I've seen that being suggested several places.
And sorry for bringing up a topic that I know has been discussed to death. As many threads as I've read, I see all kinds of conflicting info.
The 59nengine should use the 2 piece rubber seal, not the rope. The dimensions of the groove in the block and cap changed somewhere around late 55 or 56. Jerry
Right. I should have seen the 1959 year.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Please be certain to inspect your sealing surface all the way around. Your engine (no matter when it was made) may have originally had a rope seal or somebody may have used one in it. I have seen two that were newer and had never been rebuilt but had a rope seal...a 1956 and a 1959. If it ever had a rope seal then it is possible there could be roughness, pitting, etc on the crank sealing surface. If there is, then my suggestion would be to use a Speedi-Sleeve back there along with some red loctite to get a nice new surface.
I would try to find an old stock Fel-Pro orange colored rubber seal...maybe on eBay or Etsy. They're discontinued but I don't hold Best Gasket in the same high regard as some. Fel-Pro number was P017176 and Victor Reinz (same seal) was SA737.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Best Gasket is know for their rope material, I build Pontiac motors, a couple every year, Best is the only seal I will install ( rope ). I can't speak for the rubber type, Pontiac only used rope, but it's been said, the grooves for the rope may not be concentric with the bearing surface, with a rope seal, it doesn't matter, with a rubber seal, it makes a big difference.
The last one I saw was a real mess. So much so I kept pictures of it. It had a rubber seal however when I took it apart I could tell at some point it had a rope seal. The problem with rope seals is that they harbor moisture...a lot if you live in a humid area. If the engine sits without being used that moisture, acid, etc will ruin the rear sealing surface. The rubber seal was so worn it couldn't have sealed anything. Also, it is a good idea to reduce the clearance on your rear main bearing (all mains actually) to as little as possible. You don't want the crank bouncing around unless you have a spring type full seal. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
