The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Issues from shop

I finally got my truck back from the shop and able to give it a good look and found a couple of issues I would appreciate your advice on:

1) the distance between the frame and the rear tire is about one inch greater on the driver's side than the passenger side.

2) as shown in the photo, the lower control arm on the passenger's side sticks farther out toward the front than the one on the driver's side.

Thanks

Was your truck in an accident? It looks like the frame may be skewed.

Kevin - On your 1st question, just to confirm, is that distance side to side between frame side rail and rear wheel/tire? I'd have to go double check the FAM for dimensions on the axle location, but off the top of my head that sounds wrong.

On question 2, I'd measure the distance from the front of the truck frame to the spindle center line. If they aren't the same, it ain't going to be fun to drive.

While you're measuring, I'd be looking at the center lines, front to back and parallel of the wheels on each side to see if the are in alignment as well as the distance between the front spindle center to rear axle center. They should be equal distances.

If not, time to have a reckoning with your shop IMHO.

Do you have a picture of the bottom of the front end showing the mounting points of the two lower a-arms?

On the rear axle, you need to determine if the tire / wheel is the problem, or the axle itself is not centered. Swap the tires from side to side, this would be a good time to measure the axle location when the tires are off. Measure from brake drum to leaf spring and/or leaf spring mount on the axle.

The only way to tell it's centered is to start measuring. I recently centered up a Trans Am front subframe and rear axle assembly. I started with both ends of the car setting level on jack stands so I could get under it. I used string and a plumb bob and dropped points down on to some masking tape on the floor. I then meaured from the points on the floor which is much easier then trying to measure the actual car. The more points you drop, the more accurate you can be, check the frame also to be sure its still square.
Go to the GM Heratage Center and get a copy of the information packet of your truck, it will have frame measurements you can use to help determine whats what.

Joe

Guys thanks much for the information. I will do some measuring this evening and get back with you

When I see WarEagle, I think of Dale Pulde.

Find a flat, level floor and use plumb bobs from places that should be the same dimensions, side to side, and also length. Those grease fittings on the control arm pivots would be a good place to start. Then find somewhere such as the rear spring pivots, etc. to establish rear reference points that should be in the same position side to side. Also make diagonal measurements to check for "parallelogram" warp of the frame. I put masking tape on the floor and use a felt tip pen to get an exact position of the plumb bob point.
Jerry

The fact that those two discrepancies you stated are diagonally opposite each other point toward the frame being racked. The driver side rail is sitting farther back than the passenger side relative to a perpendicular line.

Joe's suggestion to use plumb bobs and masking tape is ideal.

I'd create a virtual map of the frame with lots of points on the floor.

Take some measurements from a level floor to points on each side of the frame to see if it's twisted as well as racked.

Be glad you noticed this now before installing the bodywork. A frame shop ought to have an easy time stretching things back into shape.

Again I appreciate the advice. Didn't have time to do much yesterday but I did measure the wheelbase on each side: Driver side - 126.5" & Passenger side - 127.5"

Wow! If the frame were just racked or twisted, the wheelbase would still be the same on each side.

Two different wheelbases means some part of the frame is bent/stretched or something like that.

The wheelbase is supposed to be 127". The truck was probably T-Boned in a crash, shortening the wheelbase on one side while lengthening it on the other.

From above, your frame looks like a banana.

I betting the A-arm is clamped on wrong or the shaft is installed backwards, thats why I wanted a picture of how it mounts.

Joe I'll get that to you thanks

That would be great if that's the case. A lot easier to fix than a bent frame.