The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Stacking Fan Spacers

Trying to move the fan closer to the radiator on my SBC`s.
I using a 2 inch spacer and would like to add.
Any tricks to locking the two spacers together to prevent wobble?
If I move the fan forward another 1 1/2 inches , is that likely to draw air thru the RAD any better?

If the two spacers are flat on each end, you shouldn't have issues with wobble as long as the bolts are tight. The best approach would be to get a 3 1/2 inch spacer, though.

Yes, the closer the fan is to the radiator the better it will draw air because of less chance of air being drawn across the back of the radiator before it gets thru the fan.

It would be much more effective to use a shroud instead of moving the fan. A shroud should only cover half the fan blade, however- - - -put the back end of the shroud even with the support spider where the blades are attached.
Jerry

Jerry's right. A well fitting shroud would be better.

If you are going to stack them I would put assembly glue between them. Loctite makes some good products. A shroud is always best but maybe spacers are good enough. get a cheep lawn mower blade balancer and check the balance of the blade. Do a little grinding if needed. Being that far out is a lot of leverage so I would upgrade the fasteners.

thanks guys. What concerns me about a shroud ,or at least the metal barrel one I have is its
placement would be so close to the ALT that adjustments cannot be made w/o its removal.
Stacking the spacer was just me trying to make use of what I have.
I found a 4 inch spacer F/S. I guess what I need is the fan closer to the RAD with a short shroud housing.
So that the fan is just inside the shroud. Pic shows the 2 inch spacer.
My goal is have the RAD hold a tissue paper at idle

Do both. Move the fan out enough so that the shroud doesn't interfere with the alternator. However, how often do you ever have to monkey with the alternator? Next time it needs replacing, just remove the shroud. Four more bolts won't be that bad.

Not very often. Couple times when new tightening the belt.

3 1/2" spacers available on Ebay.

Something to consider, I just replaced a flan blade similar to yours with a Vintage Air, direct mount, https://vintageair.com/direct-mount-fan-blade-17-25-in-x-2-in-steel-fan/ . I went from 18 flex fan to 17 steel blade, the Vintage Air fan moves twice the air the flex fan did. I was having issues with heat at idle with A/C on. The new fan cured it so well I can now replace the 180 thermostat with a 195 to help with heat in the winter. I made a new shroud to fit the smaller diameter fan.
My fan is about 3/4" from the core, the flex fan was at the same distance. Build a shroud with a removeable section for alternator/belt maintenance.

thanks Joe. I have a 18 inch steel on the way. Thatll fit inside the barrel shroud I have. with 1/2 inch
on each side. The shroud had been cutback some from before. I`m thinking I can cut it back more.
To the right length from the RAD and ALT/PSP. That should solve the 1958/327 since it has a stock RAD and the shroud will
clear. My other 327 /59 has a 4 row RAD and that barrel shroud won`t fit. Its only reading H on HOT days sitting in line somewhere.w/H being 200 degrees.
So most of the time its OK. A 4 inch spacer would do well as the RAD is close at that point

My LCF with the original 283, original fan with no clutch, and original radiator and shroud has zero trouble keeping the engine cool. I agree that a shroud will be the best option.

Do you have apic of your shroud

I'll try to get a good picture of the shroud, under the hood of mine is pretty dark, I don't know if will show much detail.

I purchased a fan Shroud from H & H Classics in Bentonville, AR. I fit perfectly and mounted in the factory location. I have a 327 in my '59.

https://hhclassic.com/i-13714453-fan-shroud.html