I am preparing to install glass in my '50 3600 and have a few questions that I am hoping will ease the process.
When installing the glass into the rubber how do people get the last corner of the glass into the groove? As shown in the attached I have the glass into the groove most of the way around but I can not seem to stretch the rubber enough to get the last corner installed. Is there a trick or process to getting enough flexability in the rubber to stretch it over the last corner?
I inserted rope into the pinch weld channel on the rubber but I am concerned that the rope I have is too large a diameter, it basically fills the groove for the pinch weld as shown in the other picture attached. Should I be getting a smaller diameter rope for this task? What diameter rope are people typically using for this installation?
Your rope is too large. Use something like parachute cord, about 1/8" diameter. You should have no problems with that.
As far as getting the last corner of the glass in, you'll just need to work on stretching the rubber along it's length, not just at the corner. Maybe heat up the gasket just a bit.
Last edited by klhansen; 07/31/20256:04 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Lay the whole thing out in the driveway in the sun. It'll stretch right in.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
A little Dawn dishwashing soap (the blue stuff) will help and it won't hurt the rubber. Rub a layer on the inside of the rubber. I use 1/8" cord...poly type. You didn't mention whether you have the type that includes the stainless molding. That is another discussion (for which I posted some hints & notes the last time I did one). If that is the case please make certain you install the molding first and let us know. As I said, a slightly different bit of work there.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
If you have or can get a pair of the glass handling suction cups they make handling easier and give you some purchase when trying to manipulate the glass.
1941 Chevy "First rebuild - complete!" Follow the story in the DITY 1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration process Read his Project Journal 1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
Jon and Homer52, thank you for the additional input. I do not have the stainless molding (one less headache) but I do have the glass handling suction cups.
I also bought new rope, paracord 5/32" (that was the closest I could get to 1/8").
