The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Given a Car Hauler Trailer yesterday, not sure what's next

Hey Guys, I'm not sure this post belongs here, so Mods, if you move it, I'll understand.
Yesterday, my Dad gave me his double axle, car hauler trailer. It has electric brakes and pulls great with 4 used tires.
It is probably 25 + years old.
It needs paint, wiring for lights and electric brakes. Both ramps are there that store underneath.
I can take pics if need be. But my question is, what do I do first?
I called a trailer supply store here in my hometown. They told me they could fix me up with all parts for the trailer, brakes, wiring, lights.
I just don't know what to tackle first.
My goal is to have the trailer in like new working order, lights, brakes and fresh paint.
Keep in mind, this trailer has set in the woods for about 10 years and hasn't been pulled until yesterday.
HELP!
cc

coltcarbine,

What a find...Dads are great. I usually do a project in this order. Inspect the trailer for broken welds etc and get it back together structurally.

If you are going to sandblast it, do that now and get some good primer on it.

After all the sand and dust has settled, do your mechanical...bearings and brakes.

Now you can paint the trailer without fear of greasy fingerprints.

Finish it off with wires and lights and maybe new rims and tires.

Get ready to have friends borrow your new, pretty trailer!


Stuart

Can Rusty rod borrow it?

Sure, Rusty!
Lemme get her fixed up first!

Atomarc hit the nail on the head. The only thing I would add is to disasseble the jack and lubricate all of the moving parts. Also, make sure the coupler works like it should and has no cracks in it.

Colt: Next time Houston 54 comes on ask to see his trailer or just ask him about it. He did a beautiful job and it made a 2000 plus round trip.

popcorn The Truth is Out There (Lord now I am bragging on the man! ) Pops

Most of your running gear is probably just fine. The wiring and lights may need to be replaced but here is what I would do if you are serious about rehabing the trailer.

Remove wood
Sand blast frame
Weld in 1.5 angle sections to act as cable loom from the tonge to just in from of the first axle.
Weld on some 3/8-16 bolts to inside frame members in three locations to act as grounding positions.
Prime with red oxide primer
Paint with color of your choice
Get standard wiring scheme for your tow vehicle
Purchase 6 conductor cable to run from brake axle, usually rear axle on tandem, to coupler plus two feet.
Purchase additional wiring, connectors and lighting.
Install electrics before installing new deck wood.
Inspect electric brakes to ensure functional.
Install electric break-away system (Required by Federal Law and most states). About $45 for a good one with a built in battery charger.
Source No 1 or No 2 treated lumber for your deck.
Ensure your tires are trailer rated tires (ST series). There is a place in Sikeston, MO near you which sells complete tire/wheel assemblies at a very good price.

I have some pictures in my picture trail album showing the refab of my trailer which was basically completed earlier this year. Follow the link in my signature to find it.

Good luck.

On a serious note... EVERYONE make sure the ball locking mechanism is TIGHT.... Rusty Rod had a 68 442 come off the ball because it was loose... ruined a previously straight front fender, grill and bumper.

Get at least a ¾-ton tow vehicle and an adjustable brake controller.

I've always used binders and chains to hold the vehicle on the trailer. Then wired the binder handles so they won't pop loose. I saw some one use big nylon(?) rachet straps. Any thoughts???

Larry

Thanks for the input guys.
Good news is:
I already have a good truck. '98 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 set up by the previous owner for towing.
Gooseneck with electrical socket in the bed and a Reese under the bumper with electrical socket install AND a set of aux lights under the bumper for hooking up at nighttime. Truck has oil cooler and trans fluid cooler.

More good news, trailer tires are good. Frame is good. Floor is steel mesh. Runners and ramps are steel.
Wheel bearsing checked out good. Jack is lubed and working good.
No lights, Brakes are uncertain. Wiring is shot. Rust is everywhere including underneath.
I'd bet it'd cost a fourtune to sandblast this thing.
Thoughts?
cc

If you have a place to do the blasting you can same $ by doing it yourself. Cost me about $75 to rent a 130 CFM compressor for the day. Borrowed a pressure pot from a friend and bought about 8 bags of sand. You will need a quart of primer and about t2-3 quarts of color. Picked mine up at Tractor Supply. Use the hardener.

Another option is to drag the trailer to a local blasting yard and they may do it for about $150.00. You could always strip it yourself with a wire wheel on a grinder but you would not be able to get all the rust off. In that case you could use Zero Rust paint as a base and after it fully cures cover it with a top coat.

Thanks Houston, I'll check out prices around town.
Take care, guys.
cc

When you replace the brake components consider changing over to the disk setup. Really adds some stopping power and less fade.

Thanks for the input, 53. Will do.
cc

I would never rent a blaster since the local u-sandblast-it place charges about $1/minute and they supply the protective head gear w/ fresh air feed, the gloves and the foam earplugs.

Think about it, $30 for 30 minutes of rust vaporizing joy and you just drive away when you're done. No muss, no fuss, no cleanup.

I have all my sandblasting done at the local head stone place(gravemarkers),they are usually cheaper then the "Sandblasting" places since they do it as filler work in there "dead" time!

You might get a three-way plug in with the main standard plugs with it. Otherwise you might as well hack into the wiring to break it in. lol

If you sand blast it, be sure and clean and repack the wheel bearings again.

Check / repack the wheel bearings - likely pretty dry / pretty rusty after all these years !

Congrats on the trailer, will be some of the best money you will spend. Nice to be able to just go get parts and parts trucks when you run across a good deal. If your gonna need to move it around before you get the rewire done, pick up a set of these from Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94413
for $25 you can just stick them on the back of the trailer and have lights. I've got a set I bought to use on my tow dolly and I've since used them on several different trailers that had flakey wireing of their own. You can also use them as extra's on trucks too. My 53 2 ton has got a plug wired under the dash for these to plug into, the old lights worked but I felt better knowing that I had all new wiring running from the switch to the back when I run it on the road (rarely for now) Next summer the truck will get a complete rewire and I won't worry about it anymore.
Mongo

I wouldn't count on those trailer tires being good. Tires only last about 5 years before they dry rot inside. I would replace them before you go putting something valuable on the back. Blown tires can kill you.