Working on my 53 Chevy 3100 truck cab. I ordered a new right side rocker panel but I see that I also need the rubber seal & retainer. I’ve searched hard but only found the right side on eBay.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Take a look on LMCtruck.com or classicparts.com . LMC truck has illustrations that may help you identify what you are needing.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Maybe you are thinking of American Classic Trucks merging with Classic Trucks of America. When you search one it brings you to the "new" site....or it used to. A bunch of comnpanies were incorporated by Brothers Truck Parts and into Holley. Seems like Holley owns most of the aftermarket for our trucks.
Last edited by bartamos; 07/13/20258:38 PM.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
I bought both sides of that rubber seal and retainer from Jim Carter Their PN's CB234 and CB239. The retainer is the same, either left or right side.
Last edited by klhansen; 07/13/20258:52 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I noticed that on Lumbersawyer's link that LMC doesn't carry the running board seal retainer.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
1st is the running board seal set not have the seal retainer? 38-8901 includes the running board seal & seal attaching plate. It gets confusing as to where I look.
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Wanted to send you a picture of the inside & outside panel on my truck. Left & right side. I know I need to cover & fill in holes to prevent water & trash from entering from the outside but I’m thinking I’ll just add to the existing inner panel to seal it off. The inner panels are not weight bearing? You know I’m not professional but I want to do an adequate job on the floor pan & foot pan. I made the two pans out of 16 ga steel & plan to screw them down then seal up the seam that joins the two. Then add the two panels.
Not to cause confusion here but after finding the nice pans on LMC I’m thinking about buying those pans. It’s all going to be covered up with quieting layers & carpet anyway…
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
1st is the running board seal set not have the seal retainer? 38-8901 includes the running board seal & seal attaching plate.
I think the running board seal set 30-2330 on Lumbersawyer's link is just the rubber but it appears that what you found with the rocker panel also includes the running board seal and its retainer. That's good.
Your floor pan patches look decent, especially if they're 16 gauge, which is heavier than stock.
The attached picture of yours with the red line added shows where the inner-to-outer cowl piece connects to the inner cowl panel. That's going to compromise strength a bit if not fixed. I'd recommend that you replace the inner cowl, inner-to-outer cowl, and outer cowl on both sides. You have some serious rust going on.
I'd also recommend that you start a thread for all this in the DIY Gallery HERE That'll get everything in one place on your project, rather than piecemail in various forums (you already have two threads here in Paint and Body.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
1st is the running board seal set not have the seal retainer? 38-8901 includes the running board seal & seal attaching plate.
I think the running board seal set 30-2330 on Lumbersawyer's link is just the rubber but it appears that what you found with the rocker panel also includes the running board seal and its retainer. That's good.
Your floor pan patches look decent, especially if they're 16 gauge, which is heavier than stock.
The attached picture of yours with the red line added shows where the inner-to-outer cowl piece connects to the inner cowl panel. That's going to compromise strength a bit if not fixed. I'd recommend that you replace the inner cowl, inner-to-outer cowl, and outer cowl on both sides. You have some serious rust going on.
I'd also recommend that you start a thread for all this in the DIY Gallery HERE That'll get everything in one place on your project, rather than piecemail in various forums (you already have two threads here in Paint and Body.)
Can you help me locate the best cowls that I need? I see under LMC Steel Bidy Patch Panels, # 13, 14 & 12 & 11 possibly? There are other cowl panels on other places but these look better. Thanks!
Last edited by klhansen; 07/14/20255:20 AM. Reason: removed extra quotes
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Those would work for you. The inner cowl (footwell) panels # 13 and 14 look more complete than the ones I used, I replaced only the lower portion of mine, but you can figure out where you need to replace and cut off the part you don't need. Just cut away the part that's rusted till you get to solid metal. 9 and 10 are the complete outer cowl panels, but you may be able to use the shorter ones if the rust doesn't get up that high but they're only a couple bucks less than the complete panels, so I'd get the full panels.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
