Anyone know how to remove the electrical socket within the headlight can? The piece that has 3 wires running through it, the wires are wasted and I want to replace the headlights electrical. Does the metal insert come out or do I simply replace the wires through the existing holes?
Mike - Since I'm still up I though I'd take a shot at an answer. Not done this myself, but from zooming in on your pictures it looks like that center pod surrounding the wires is pressed into the opening tube in the bucket.
On the inside, it looks like the pod is held stable by a bent in edge of the surrounding split retaining tube. Kinda looks like it's crimped (see zoomed in pic with arrow) against the center wire pod to prevent it from backing out. You may need to get a small flat blade in there and expand that away from the pod to allow it to move out of the tube (pressing from inside out).
The zoomed in pic from the outside looks like there is a compression or wedging collar between the inner wire pod and the bucket tube, or perhaps that's just the outer view of that inside tube with the crimped edge?
Once you give that inner crimp a little expansion, get some penetrating lube in the seam between the inner wire pod and the tube (both inside and outside), then you should be able to press/tap that inner wire pod out of the tube, I think.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
There's that funky two piece connector again. That is a quick connect between the wires inside the bucket and the truck harness. So there are 3 contacts in the middle of the two parts of the"pod". i agree with Dan that liberal use of penetrating solvent/oil will help. Hold the inner part and push in the outer part as you turn it counter clock wise. You many need to use two sets of pliers.
I eliminated the connectors on my rebuild of my '37 by putting extra wire in the bucket and just hardwiring it. In the future, if I or someone needs to totally remove the headlight bucket, they will need to cut the wires and there is plenty of extra length to reconnect them. The purpose of the connector is to allow rapid assembly during manufacture but the drawback is the connection is really not waterproof, as seen here.
Kent
Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 06/19/202511:58 AM.
Thanks for the directions. The penetrating oil worked. I was able to remove the connector on the harness side and will wait to remove connector from within the light can until I figure out what I plan to do with my lights. If I go 12 volts it maybe a different connector, requiring a different connection method. I like the comment on leaving long wires in the light can. Thanks again, Mike
I'd suggest eliminating the connector altogether. Drill out the center, run new wires through the hole, and use one of the "rubber in a pressure can" products that's sold in TV ads to form a water tight seal. Quick, simple, and permanent, and it eliminates a possible source of resistance and corrosion. Then drill a drain hole in the bottom of the headlight housing to give the water that will inevitably accumulate somewhere to go! Jerry
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