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Hello all

I am having a dedicated circuit installed in My garage.
I'm planning on buying a welder but not sure which one I will buy yet, but I want one that will run off of a 110V circuit.

So my question is, what amperage should I have the circuit set up for. I want to make sure it will sufficiently run a small welder.

Thanks

I don't know what you are intending to use the welder for, but why not go to 220V if you are installing a dedicated circuit as it will open up you options tremendously. Probably will cost the same.

110 volt machines are limited in output and duty cycle due to the fact that 110 volt circuits are limited to the 20 amps max.

A 220 machine can be higher output and longer duty cycle as there is twice the power avaliable from a 220 volt 20 amp circuit than a 110 volt 20 amp circuit. Power (Watts)= Volts x Amps
(220V x 20A=4400 Watts, 110V x 20A = 2200 Watts)

I made the mistake of buying a 110 volt machine and found that I was light duty and only good for light sheet metal work. Sold it and replaced it with a 220 machine that I can weld real stuff with. My $.02

Ted

Yea I know 220 is the way to go but my budget is limited and I will be surprised if I use it more than 10 times a year.
I just need to weld small odds and ends.

220 is definetly the way to go, you can also run
an air compressor on 220. You'll get faster pressure buildup and a shorter cycle time on the
motor.

220 v welders (and compressors) are pretty common and you can get a great one used for what you'd pay for a decent new 110 one, and get alot more for your money.

the circuit for a 240 circuit will cost slightly more than one for 120v.the difference is for the doublepole breaker.

Well this is pretty easy to figure out. If your odd or end is thicker than 1/8" then you aint going to weld it very good with a 110 welder. you might get lucky once in a while and get tow pcs of 3/16 the stick together but that about it. Taking this example: You can go to Sears and buy a 110V wire welder for a round $200, it will weld 1/8" and down pretty well. It only has a 20% duty cycle, meaning you can only weld about 20 sec in every min before it get to hot and kicks itself off or burns up. OR you can get yourself a nice $250 dollar stick welder and with its 80 to 90% duty cycle, weld steel up to 1/2" thick all day. The extra cost of the breaker and a little bigger wire will be quickly off set by having something you can use, and works right the first time. You can also use this breaker to power other things that you may add later, and it wont cost you any thing extra as the power is already in place. I dont know your setup but sometimes you could just make a heavy extension cord and run your welder from a dryer outlet you already have. That would be the cheapest way to have the welder you need and not have to wire up any extra stuff.

Better to do it right the first time. Half of it is labor, I dug a trench 125 ft only to have to do it again for 220.

Gonna dissent from the majority.
I bought a Hobart Handler 120 MIG (with shielding gas setup) on the unmentionable auction site, and it does just fine for my needs -- and I suspect yours. It's the biggest of the 110Volt models (I think), and is highly recommended by a lot of folks.

Really, if I was going to subframe my truck, I'm not sure I'd trust my welding skills. Anything structural, I'll go to an expert. I'm a hobbyist.

Have your electrician run 12 Gage Wire, a 20A breaker, and a dedicated 20A outlet.

Most of your cost is for him to show up, so if you can spring a little extra, also have him pull a 220 line. You'll need it someday, whether you do step up to a bigger welder, or install a compressor, or maybe even an electric oven for powdercoating (or home brewing?). Ask your electrician -- it really may not be that much more for him to do both at once.

Cheers,
mark.
'51 KY 3100

So I ran a 20 Amp 120Volt

He didn't say he was going mig. Are you Billybolt? A 110 stick is almost usless.

Well I scored big over the weekend. (I hope)
One of my relatives said I could keep his Lincoln Arc welder its a 220 / 50 Amp welder.

Will this setup weld sheet metal All I know about it so far is that it has a knob on the front where you can adjust the amperage, a ground clamp and a holder for the rods.
Do you guys think this is a satisfactory setup for a beginner.
He is also hooking me up with a 20 Gal 220 compressor.

Anything you get for free or real cheap is a bargain. I never heard of a 50 amp lincoln. betcha that isn't the correct amp. Mostlikley a 225 which needs a 50 amp circut breaker. Good starting rig,I still have one. Ask the local welding supply which rod a beginner should use.
probably 6013, or 6014. It is very difficullt to use a stick welder on sheet metal without burning holes. use a real small rod and low amperage in short stiches.

On the front panel it reads, INPUT 220V 50amp
I will look it over again

Staying with my original idea, a 225ac. if it is a ac/dc output you have a real deal.

I'm in complete agreement with this. I bought a Hobart Handler 140 (mig) a year ago and its an awesome machine. Runs on a 20 amp 120v circuit. Does the job I need it for and then some. For sheetmetal don't even try using an arc welder- you'll make a major mess. If you plan on welding sheet metal you'll need to use gas with it. The flux core wire burns too hot and leaves slag that will need to be cleaned up. If you've never welded before a mig is the easiest way to learn. Just buy a quality name brand machine ( Hobart, Miller, Lincoln). Stay away from the cheapies because you get what you pay for. For good info on welders check out the Weld Talk forum at

http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/

That lincoln will need a single phase 220volt 50amp circuit. Sheet metal in the 20-18 gauge range will require a small diameter 1/16 or 3/32 rod. A mild penetrating rod like 6013 is OK 6022 would be better (but harder to find) weld in spots or stitches in a very shallow push travel angle. Use DCEN or AC to reduce penetration. http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/stick_tips/

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf

Nothing makes a welder better than a little proper technique and a whole lot of practice.

Rev

I am going to protest the 110 volt guys.

You can get a 110 welder that will do a nice job, on a body pannel or something. But they you will weld a heavier pice of metal and it will look like you welded it nicely buy the penetration will be so shallow that it wont hold much better than super glue.

There is really no point in using a 110 unless its your only choice. Or you are build light guage items.

As soon as you weld a thick piece of metal, the weld will just sit on top rather than getting 100% penetration.

The cost difference might be significant. And a 100 machine is convienient as all getup. But it will never do the big stuff. So if you wat to have that ability, go 220.

2 cents, Run a 220V line, 50 amps or more, You can split it at the garage end into 110V. Have the best of both worlds.

To add to Chester's suggestion, you would install a subpanel in the garage with 220V feeds and 110v feeds. Then you could do anything you wanted to in the future.

Chester, If you only run 50amp to the garage and use anything else beside the welder, you will be popping breakers. You might need a light or two on and use a grinder occasionally

Trucker had the right Idea.

This is true, I ran 100 amps off my main panel, with a sub panel. But i don,t know what they have on the house end.

the 100 breaker box is plenty, The size of the wire from the house is what will untimately determine how much you get to the garage.