I'm really close to having my 1946 1/2 ton Chevy truck back on the road. So close. My windshield bothers me, though. I'm leaving the original glass for now, anyway, but the molding needs attention.
It was an old farm truck in Kansas, in it's past life, and everything has been fixing jimmy-rigs. I get it, but what's the least invasive way to fill, repair, or replace the molding? Leave it and see how it does? Advise? Thank you in advance!
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Why not replace the broken glass at the same time? If you just replace the rubber seal you'll have to replace it again when you do the glass.
Also, there's a strong likelihood that the broken windshield will break further during installation and removal. Ditto the rear window.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 06/01/20254:09 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Thank you, Dennis! That's what I was worried about, the accuracy. I've heard horror stories.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
Yes! Steele Rubber is the way to go. It is a supple and easy to install. The price difference between Steele and the other products sold is not worth the dollars saved when weighed against the hassle. I am speaking from experience in getting to do that task twice on the same project. I agree, do the glass now. You’ll be glad you did.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
When you redo the windshield, be sure the windshield regulator causes the window to hit the two rubber bumpers near the middle of the window. If the frame hits at the corners, you may break the glass when closing the window tightly. At the extreme ends of the windshield frame, there is enough leverage to break the glass. If you are missing the bumpers or they are deteriorated, you can purchase new ones at the usual vendors, like Jim Carter. I have a factory technical bulletin from 1937 that explains this and it would apply up to 1946. Kent
Thank you, Light'sdad! That's good to know because mine didn't have one. We wouldn't have had a clue (until it was too late).
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
@ Light'sdad - I checked my books and can't find anything listed/pictures in a diagram except for the trim. These two came up in a Google search, but I have no idea where they'd go. (There's no obvious place to screw them in) Can you please let me know? I'd really appreciate it!
Also, to those recommending that i replace the glass - Is it possible? This has been caulked, or something like caulking has been applied. Given the condition of the inside and the outside combined, I wouldn't know how to remove the glass without compromising the metal frame.
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
The easiest way to do it is to break it and take it out in pieces. Cut the remaining rubber seal with a box knife. The glass will be easily remove, then.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Not sure if GM went to safety glass by '46, but my '37 had straight glass in front and rear. When it broke it was all kinds of nasty sharp pieces so becareful working around it.
46 Chevy Trucks, From your pictures it looks like your windshield is glued shut with sealant. Does your your windshield open with the regulator? If not, you won't see the bumpers, which are in the window channel, at the bottom, about 4-5 inches from the middle. If you open your windshield, you will also notice that in the bottom corners there are drain holes. These go into the space behind the kick panels inside the cab. Originally, there are rubber tubes that connect with the drain holes and the rubber tubes go out the bottom of the cab. Otherwise you get water on your floorboard. The drain holes and tubes can get plugged with dirt and debris.
@ Light'sdad - It's hard to tell in the pictures, but the windshield is open. Thank you for the info on the tubes!! It didn't have any when I bought it.
Now we're on to the gas tank. I got it cleaned and re-worked, and picked it up this morning. Two straps, four bars, and some foam. Fingers crossed!
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.
In your picture of the open window, you see 3 clutch head screws holding the lip of the dash to the body. The one nearest the regulator tongue should go through the middle of the rubber bumper.
Right now I am not where my '42 is but I will be there Monday or Tuesday. I can add a picture of my windshield then. Kent
1946 Chevy Getting started on Bruno Follow the story in the DITY Gallery You can't buy happiness but you can buy a truck ... and that's pretty much the same thing.