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Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 73
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 73
Within the next few weeks I’m hopefully going to be getting the front clip on the truck hopefully for the last time and I’m thinking about wiring. I did purchase a wiring kit for the entire truck from American Autowire and have been using that. I’m trying to keep the truck fairly stock looking except for the fact if you look under the hood there’s 8 cylinders instead of 6. Haha. But the feel of the truck is vintage to 54’.
My question is are there any pro’s or con’s in using the original factory headlamp terminal blocks on the fenders? Other than you see them. The alternative is just to run the wires without the blocks towards the headlamps and try and hide the connection wires in the wheel well or grill area. I’m running the wiring along the fenders, like factory, visible in the engine bay so I’m not trying to hide any wiring.
Any thoughts or pictures are welcomed. Thanks

Adam


Adam
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,934
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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When I rewired my truck's lighting, I installed a new terminal block. I think its better than making splices and wrapping them in tape. It also makes it easier for future repairs if necessary.

All the black tape wrapped stuff was the old wiring
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1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,329
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
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Posts: 2,329
I used the old terminal blocks ,like Otto shown ,I put a piece of rubber strip under it for good measure.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
Follow in the DITY
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Posts: 11,138
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,138
I bought new 4-position terminal blocks for the inner fender connections (they're used on the '54 trucks with the horn behind the grille and available from the usual vendors.) I added a wire to each side for turn signals (dual filament bulbs in the parking lights.) Since they were longer than the originals, I flattened and welded up the hump where the original was mounted and hammered in a new hump in the right location for the 4-position terminal block. Keeping the terminal block turned out to be a good move as I wound up removing the front clip shortly after completing the truck. All that was needed to disconnect the headlight and parking light wiring was to loosen the terminal screws and pull the main harness loose and drape it over the engine.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2000
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Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
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I did not use the terminal blocks. Wires run in flexible conduit along the frame to headlights, parking lights and horns. I did not use a kit; made up my own harness.

Your choice.


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
I replaced the original terminal blocks with reproductions and attempted to keep the wiring as close to original as possible. If you ever need to remove the front clip, you'll find "disconnecting" the wiring will be much simpler.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
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Sir Searchalot
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The terminal blocks were a bad idea to begin with. Extra terminations put in the open to corrode, get wet, volt drop, break....
Straight thru wiring is best anywhere. Splices are fine. Black tape or liquid tape covered and/or any type loom you like. I have never needed to remove a front clip after wiring. What reason would there be?
You wire down the left fender to left lights and cross over to right.
No reason to "hide" front wiring.

Last edited by bartamos; 05/27/2025 10:12 PM.

Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Dec 2020
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G
'Bolter
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I agree. Straight thru wiring.


~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
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'Bolter
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Thanks for the thoughts so far guys. For a bit there I thought most everyone was doing the factory setup. Unless they were doing some hidden high end setup. I didn’t think about ever needing to pull the front clip. Interesting thought about a good disconnect spot. I hope once I get mine back on that’s it for me. I was wondering about the chance of corrosion that got brought up. In my case mines a good weather part of the year driver so not as much of a chance. But then again just sitting they could corrode to a point. Good thoughts so far guys. Thanks for the posts.

Adam


Adam
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'Bolter
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They stop using terminal blocks in what year? at least 1958.


~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,690
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 3,690
I don’t see big problem with the inner fender terminal blocks. I think they look cool.

It’s not like many of us are fording rivers with these trucks. Not a huge deal to keep them sealed and/or inspect/clean the connections once a year or so.


1951 3100
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,299
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Posts: 10,299
I dig all of the uninsulated wire connections on these old trucks. There are a ton of them under the dash.
Gives me a zest for life!


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Oct 2021
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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The one on my truck lasted 70+ years. No reason to change what works. It's easier than making splices, too.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 214
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'Bolter
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If you are looking at 'fooling' people, you can use the fender terminal blocks with a modern harness as a connection point for easy front clip removal. Just unscrew the connectors, hang the cab side of the wires and not have to go all the way to the end connections like headlight sockets.
I'm working on finishing with a new 21 circuit harness, onto the fender connector blocks and into a headlight relay harness. That will be fed on the high current side with hidden 10 Ga from the passenger side to also feed the e-fan relay for future use. The markers/turns and fog lights will go onto the blocks. Will make a change easy to the blocks. Just use shrink tube on the crimp ends, cloth tape and it will look close to OEM.


Chip

'Rusto-Mod'
'51 Chevy 3600 5 window | C4 Corvette front/rear suspension & drivetrain | everything else looks old and stock
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