Anyone have a fix for the door handles / window cranks falling off? I thought of drilling into the regulator (splined deal that sticks out of the door) to allow the "set screw) to dig in & some lock tight too. I'd like to hear other thoughts before i move on.
1959 3100, original 235/3 on the tree w/overdrive. Carter YF 2100S carb, 205/75/15 w/front sway bar
Fester - Are your set screws backing out? They originally had a nylon bit that helped keep them locked in place when initially installed. Your drilling a small spot in the regulator for the set screw to positively lock into the shaft, along with a dab of Blue (removable) Loctite should work fine.
If your set screws are on the old and worn out side, you can get some replacements from Jim Carter.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Yep, so if you use a new handle with an old door latch or window crank they don`t match well. The set screw needs to fit in that groove on the shaft. If that happens it cannot come off.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Thank you both for your 2 cents & advice. Yes mine keep backing out, but i knew the factory had a trick ( nylon bit, clever) . Its on my short list now.
1959 3100, original 235/3 on the tree w/overdrive. Carter YF 2100S carb, 205/75/15 w/front sway bar
Original handles used two screws A set screw inside that was tiny Then a cosmetic cap screw that locked the internal set screw With the original double screws the handles stayed on No one reproduces the double screw sets You have to go to junk yards and pray to find them The outer ones are virtually all lost to time The inner ones are too small to work on their own -s
