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| | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 45 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 45 | Hi there,
I am about to replace the brake lines throughout the truck and seeking advice whether to go copper/nickel or zinc (coated mild steel I think)? tubing.
I have heard with copper/nickel if later on I decide to undo the nut there is a good chance it binds and I risk twisting off about an inch of tubing.
After any advice, suggestions is it worth going copper/nickel or stick with steel.
Any benefits of one against the other?
Thank you. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,689 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,689 | I don’t know why the tube nut would be any more prone to binding on NiCopp than it would on any other line. If you’re worried about it, maybe just a dab of antiseize between the line and nut.
The flexibility and corrosion resistance of the NiCopp would outweigh that concern (if it is a concern)…in my opinion.
Last edited by JW51; 03/22/2025 1:25 PM.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,989 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,989 | I re-plumbed mine with copper/nickel, no problems with backing the nut off.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 5,918 Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT | | Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 5,918 | Dawso, Your topic best fits in the Driveline forum, so it's been moved there for further conversation and help. Just a note from my own fairly recent experience with fabricating replacement brake lines, I found the NiCopp to be much easier to flare and bend than the zinc coated steel line. No issues with backing the nut off in my use. 
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100Follow this story in the DITY Gallery"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 1,651 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 1,651 | I bought a complete preformed set for my '46 truck and I went with the steel lines, then sprayed them with clearcoat paint. I guess I only saw steel or stainless when I was shopping.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engineHere We GoFollow in his DITY Bay- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,038 | Another advantage of copper/nickel tubing is that the material is more malleable than steel (and a lot more than stainless steel) making the flaring process easier. You are less likely to crack the flare and the steel nut will deform the flare easier making it less likely to leak. I have used this material for two complete truck restorations and half the tubing on another and there has never been leaks or failed flares.
Kent | | |
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