The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Mock up wiring question

Hello,

I am test running my 1954 inline 6 235 on a "stand". I have a question about wiring my generator to my 6v battery so that I can run it at idle for extended periods. I understand that I may not necessarily need to do this, but I certainly would like to. Attached to this is a write up of what I plan to do. Does the generator wiring look correct? Please note that the switch coming from the solenoid and going to the coil has already been wired and seems to work just fine, but I'll accept any considerations about that as well. Another note is that I have the foot pedal starting solenoid.

I am not electrically-literate and the stock diagram confuses the heck out of me. Thank you!


Diagram

I have your answers and have checked your diagram. The Big question first to clarify what you said. Do you have a foot start that has a lever that pushes down on a little switch button mounted to the top of the starter OR...do you have a foot switch that is actually an electrical switch wired to a electric solenoid, which is a "can" shape on top of the starter??

Not sure, but I think the voltage regulator case needs to be grounded. You don't show it that way.
You do show a ground connection at your 2 switches, but I don't think they need to be from an electrical standpoint.

Samm, post a photo of your starter setup.

What Bartamos said. Does the starter look like Pic #1 attached? That 's a foot pedal operated starter.

I've also added your diagram with some markups. Looks OK in general. (No grounds needed or wanted on the switches you show.)

[on edit] Bill, I believe the regulator is isolated from ground. It has rubber mounting bushings that isolate it from ground. Nope, you're correct. It should be grounded thru the mounting screws.

OK.......we will assume you do not have the "RD" system. Which is a push button switch with an electromagnetic solenoid on the starter"

Therefore;
1. We will not use the word solenoid anymore on a diagram.
2. I see you have tried to copy the factory diagram and have not realized that there are two different starting wiring systems shown on the same diagram.
3. The notes define the circle symbol with and X in the center. This is information we don't need to be concerned with.
4. The other symbol is an asterisk. This defines wires and components for a push button operated eletronagnetic solenoid. Which you do not have. Called RD. Don't know what that means. Does not matter.

You should use the factory diagram. If you wish to copy for your own convenience, that is understandable. But if you want others to read it YOU MUST use modifiers when you label a component. Not just "switch".... use "ignition switch". Be specific.

You can see on the factory diagram that battery positive goes to two places in order to show each "starting system". The RD is said to be for automatic trans and big trucks I think.
You will follow only the one wire going to "starter motor switch". That is the battery cable going to the big stud on the starter switch on top of starter. You show both starter systems on your diagram. So delete the Rd wires and "switch". Redo your diagram and I/we will check it. Your generator wiring is 66% correct. A to A. F to F...but B is to ammeter.

You do not need a switch between the regulator BAT terminal and the battery. The cutout relay in the regulator takes care of that function. You DO need a ground wire between the regulator base and the generator housing. That is absolutely necessary- - - -no discussion.

However, you don't need anything in the way of a charging system. Just use the generator as an idler to run the water pump with no wires connected to it, and connect a battery charger during the engine run. The KISS principle applies here, like in a lot of other situations. The engine will run on nothing but a fully charged battery for at least 6 hours, even without the battery charger.
Jerry

Jerry, that was my thought too, but he wanted to wire gen anyway. At least I think he said that.

I don't even run a radiator or a water pump on a test run. Just connect a garden hose to the water pump inlet and control engine temp by the flow rate with the coolant running out of the thermostat housing, without a stat installed. The wrecking yard owner across the street from my shop in California back in the 1970s taught me that trick. He would run engines for a couple of hours or more that way with the engine strapped down to a forklift pallet.
Jerry

If it's a new engine and you plan to run water only, drain the block after each use while the engine is hot. The heat will dry out the water fast enough so to not rust up the internal water jackets. A used engine is likely coated already and won't see rust like a well cleaned block will. I've broke-in enough new engines to know and have design my test stand with water drains from each side of the block. Antifreeze is fine, but is a slimy mess if you need to work on it.

I want to thank everyone for their input. I do in fact have the starter with a physical button which does not look like a can on top of the starting motor. I believe this information will benefit me when I am building my wiring harness. Yes, I want to go down that road of knocking my head against the wall for a while in the attempt to learn. Thank you everyone for putting up with my lack of knowledge and your willingness to share your own. I appreciate this greatly.

I have my engine enjoying a low idle - the water jacket is plenty "used" looking at not new, but draining the water with the engine hot will still be added to my procedure. Duh! Should have thought of that one.

My test "radiator" is a bucket suspended from the rafters with a bar sink drain and filter cut into the bottom leading back to the water pump. Works great, ha! Wanted to prevent any isolated hot spots during extended periods of run time.