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#1569520 02/03/2025 1:14 AM
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 118
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 118
I'm not a big fan of the torque tube setup, so I started thinking on how I can eliminate any potential okie bushing repairs.
Is it possible to cut the driveshaft and install a solid cap or weld it shut then reattach the ends so if the bushing goes bad there's no leak? It will have the socket and ball at the end of the transmission tail, just sealed up after the area of the cross member.
I'm totally thinking outside the box and wondering if this would work and function as it should.


1950 chevy shortbed 3100, 216 with a 3 on the tree.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,802
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,802
Sort of reinventing the wheel, aren't you? It would take a lot less effort and probably be less expensive to just convert to an open driveline setup. That would involve changing the driveshaft, transmission, and rear end to a later model assembly. Maybe a T-5 with OD 5th. gear.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
What Jerry said. Doing what you describe would still need a seal at the rear of the transmission if reusing the original transmission. And some sort of seal at the front of the torque tube as well to keep dirt out of the differential. Much better to ditch the torque tube and go with a different open driveshaft style transmission and differential.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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