The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Drilled and tapped crankshafts

I just got done drilling and tapping the nose of two crankshafts (one 216 and one '58 235) thinking I would use my harmonic balancer puller/installer to put the engine back together and use a bolt to secure the balancer. Then I looked at my balancer, which is the one with the hand crank provision (which I want to keep.) The washer and bolt would have to go on the outside of the hand crank lugs. So that part isn't going to work. The job went pretty easily with the drilling jig, drill and tap from 12Bolt.com. I used my variable speed 3/8 hand drill motor, stopping to let it cool off when it started getting toasty at the recommended slow RPM. It would be better to use a 1/2" drill motor.
I will likely drill and tap another 216 crank which may get used, but the jig will be passed on to other 'bolters that may want to use it. The later 235 balancer that doesn't have the hand crank lugs can be bolted on.

On the balancers with the hand crank lugs, I bore the lugs for a thick flat washer and a flat head Allen bolt that allows the lugs to still be used with a hand crank. All you need is a boring tool and a lathe to modify the balancer.
Jerry

Problem with the hand crank balancer is it requires a recessed bottom radiator tank (like original) to actually use. One of the best things I ever did for my truck was replacing the old swiss cheese rad, and although it looks original with the hood open, it doesn't have the recessed bottom. Win some, lose some.

Unfortunately, I don't have a lathe and boring tool. I'd have to talk one of my friends who does have a lathe into using that. I do have the original style radiator, though. I may never have an occasion to use the hand crank, but wanted to maintain the original components (on the outside at least.)