I have driven my 216 in my 1949 3600 for about 6000 miles. All in all i have no issues with it. With the overdrive transmission I can drive it 70 mph no problem. The other day coming home however I got behind a lady driving 20 mph under the speed limit. I went to pass her and she decides to speed up as I get beside her. I had to get up to about 80 mph to get around her. Now I have gotten the old truck up to 80 several times and it seems fine. I see online where the majority of people swap these engines out for 235 engines. Is there that much difference in power? Does it make that much difference? I took a trip to the coast the other day loaded with some mulch and got about 16 mpg running 70 -75 so that isn't bad. I just wondered if the advantage is worth the cost and labor?
~~ Jethro 1954 3100 Back to Life In the Dity Gallery 1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
If your truck is performing as you describe, why would you even consider a swap regardless of cost? That kind of performance from a 75 year old truck is excellent. How much faster would you want to drive it, anyway? It wasn't designed to travel any faster than you're already going in the first place.
My truck, without overdrive, cruises between 55 and 65 with no real effort. I have gotten it up to 70 once but that is the absolute limit, I think. I don't feel the need to drive it any faster than that.
If your engine blows up, then start looking for a 235 unless a running 216 falls in your lap. That's my plan.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
A 216 with the right connecting rod clearance should have no problems at any reasonable highway speed, reliability-wise. Problems arise when the rods get a little loose and start pounding away at the Babbit lining of the connecting rods. It's pretty simple to convert the engine to insert-type rod bearings for a Perkins Diesel engine, or with some creative machining, a 235 crankshaft and rods can be fitted. I see no reason to trash a basically good engine simply because most people have forgotten (or never knew) how to keep them running right. Those spray-oiler 216 and 235 engines by the hundreds of thousands helped us win WW II- - - - -how bad can they really be? Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thomas, What truck/year are you running? I hope your brakes are top notch in order to support going such a speed. Also, what overdrive gearbox are you running? Sounds like a real nice running rig.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
I have a t-5 from s-10 I think it is .74 overdrive with 4.56 rear end. I have 16 inch tires. I have updated rear brakes to a bendix style like was on lincolns. I had to fabricate a backing plate but it uses the same drum. The truck is a 49 3600.
That T5 will not connect to a torque tube driveshaft. It will require an open driveshaft rear end. Folks here have done that swap and can guide you.
~~ Jethro 1954 3100 Back to Life In the Dity Gallery 1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
That T5 will not connect to a torque tube driveshaft. It will require an open driveshaft rear end. Folks here have done that swap and can guide you.
Jethro, His truck is a 3600 (3/4ton) which has the split driveshaft setup. Front half is torque tube from transmission output to carrier bearing, then transitions to an open drive shaft from carrier bearing back to axle. He can simply replace the existing original drive with an open drive shaft to connect the T5 directly to the rear axle. Of course, properly set up with the correct length shaft and u-joints/ends, etc.
Edit: This is a topic for the Driveline forum so further discussion should head that way. Back to the "engine" subject at hand.
Last edited by Gdads51; 11/18/20243:53 PM. Reason: add edit note
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
The overdrive transmission was to best modification I have done. I can run 70 mph turning 2500 rpms. Someone has put alum. Pistons in it so the babbit shouldn't beat out too easily I think?
That T-5 with a .74 overdrive, 4.65 rear gears and original height tires (28" tall) is about as perfect as you could do for a 216. If you find that 1st gear is almost a granny gear, you can get some 215 85 R16 radials (30.5" tall) and dial 1st gear right into a useful first gear.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
