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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,134 Posts1,056,738 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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There is probably about a 2% chance I will do actually do anything like this. Just trying to learn something.
Last night, while searching for a part number on Rock Auto, I came across their listing for a steering damper. It’s a Gabriel, shock style thing, and it said it’s for vehicles that already have the mounting setup. A search for that mounting setup came up empty, but it took me down a rabbit hole reading about folks who are using dampers on their old straight axle hot rods. Quite a few are using some kind of VW style damper, other fabbed up their own. Looks like the VW damper is widely available, and might be the basis for “universal” dampers that vendors like Speedway are selling. And you can find all kinds of beefier kits for various applications.
Anyone running one of these on their straight axle Stovebolt? I understand the alleged advantages, just curious if anyone experienced any steering feel/bump steer imrpovements in the real world.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,841 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,841 | A damper usually tries to compensate for trouble elsewhere, such as an incorrect sector preload adjustment or a bent steering arm or drag link that puts the "straight ahead" position of the steering gear somewhere to one side or the other of the steering gear center point. Dampers just try to hide the source of the real problem, like bent or worn parts. I think I'd prefer to spend my time and money on fabricating an adjustable length drag link or putting the steering system back to "as new" condition. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I tried one on a straight axle pickup one time but did not like it. It was scary & awkward. It would work fine if it has power steering. With manual steering it is hard to make a quick turn. They work good on 4 wheel drives with o-size wheels/tires & raised up.
George They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 892 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2014 Posts: 892 | My old '84 Mercedes has one from the factory. It also has a LOT of caster from the factory. I believe my K 2500 Suburban has one too. Both also have power steering. I never found the need on my 1-ton. 1951 3800 1-ton"Earning its keep from the get-go"In the DITY Gallery1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 301 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 301 | I'm with Hot Rod Lincoln on this one. I replaced the kingpins, new leaf springs, shackles, bolts, tie rod and drag link balls, springs, cups. I replaced the lever action shocks with pneumatic. I also adjusted the steering box lash to factory specs. With the help of other bolters on alignment specs it drives great! But you have to get everything up to snuff. You can't adjust out sloppy worn parts.
Last edited by bztguy; 08/12/2024 2:15 AM.
1949 Chevy 3600 1975 W-25 Hurst Olds 1970 GMC 1/2 ton Fleetside 2010 Chevy Silverado
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