Drive the lugs out. You will need to replace them anyway.
Wayne 1938 1-Ton Farm Truck Stovebolt Gallery Forums 1989 Silverado 1996 Mustang GT convertible When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!
Youngster, this would also be a great time to upgrade to tapered roller bearings. Tapered bearings can handle a lot more side load than the original ball type.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
Do you think the lug studs are attaching them. Tried pressing them out in a vise but they don’t seem to move. Maybe a press will work better. I do have new roller bearings, seals etc.
Your hub and drum looks to be earlier than 1952. Looks more like 1947-50 Huck front brake drums??? Check out this 2019 conversation with pictures that shows the same drum/hub setup you have. Guidance provided in that thread with a referral to the Shop manual on how to separate the hub and drum. Hope this is helpful.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Thanks for the info. I am just going to order new hubs. I figure by the time I rework the old ones for my conversion I am better off just having everything new. I can save the old drum and hubs. Yes I do have huck brakes in the front. A lot of weird modifications made by previous owner. I think they thought all 47-54 parts are interchangeable. Most people don’t know there are differences over the years.
The lug studs are swaged into a tapered recess in the hub flange. There used to be a cutter we would use in a drill press to cut away the top of the lug stud and release the swage, and drive the studs out with an air hammer. If you don't have a swage cutter, it's possible to force the stud out with a press, but use some sort of support on the back side to prevent warping the hub flange. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
... and when you put everything back together don't use the factory specs for tightening the spindle nut (with ball bearings) with your new roller bearings.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
A lot of the Japanese compact pickups (Nissan, Toyota, Isuzu, Mazda, etc.) used the same 6 lug wheel bolt pattern as early Chevy pickups. It's fairly simple to adapt hubs and disc brakes from one of those vehicles to an early Chevy front spindle. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I agree. I just had one of my front hubs off to replace a seal and repack the bearings and they are definitely different than your picture. The drum on '51 and later (Bendix brakes) attaches on the outside of the hub, but it appears that your brake drums are attached inside of the hub flange.
I like Jerry's suggestion. Toyota copied quite a bit of GM's parts, including the 235 engine (with some slight variations.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
There are disc conversion kits offered by several aftermarket suppliers that use a 6 lug either 11" or 12" one piece rotors that come with tapered bearings. Some are configured to use stock wheels as well. Fred
1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes 1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes 2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans 1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
