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| | | | Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 15 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 15 | I have a 50 Chevy and 216. I installed a new copper line to oil pressure gauge in new original style dash cluster. I tightened it well and can’t seem to keep it from leaking. It is 1/8” cooper with a brass fitting. It doesn’t look like a usual compression fitting with a ring. And the tube doesn’t fit through the fitting to flare it. Anyone have any suggestions or have a similar issue? I’d hate to go nylon or something. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) | | Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 | Do you have a picture of the fitting? Ideally unhooked so we can see the pieces? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,067 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,067 | If the fitting nut looks like THIS (what the stock nut should look like) you need to be sure the tube fits all the way thru the nut or it will leak. If you can't get the tube thru, then you need to buy a new nut.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,989 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,989 | klhansen is correct, if the tubing was not positioned all the way through the compression nut when you initially tightened it, you will need a new nut and start fresh. If the new tubing kit and nut is not the same style as the oil pressure gauge you'll have to determine what the gauge needs as far as fittings.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 15 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2020 Posts: 15 | Thanks to all for your information!
The nut is indeed the same as klhansen showed. Now that you explain it, it only gets a one and done use and was probably not all the way through the nut originally. I've ordered new nuts to give it a go again the right way. Again, thank you! | | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,234 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part | | Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,234 | klhansen is correct, if the tubing was not positioned all the way through the compression nut when you initially tightened it, you will need a new nut and start fresh. If the new tubing kit and nut is not the same style as the oil pressure gauge you'll have to determine what the gauge needs as far as fittings. Yup! I’ve been there! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 1,964 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 1,964 | I had a new mechanical gauge that leaked behind the fitting. Must have been cracked brass threads.
~ BD.
"You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker
1958 Apache Stepside
1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 | I have been able to repair one of those by cutting off the steel line flush with the hex side of the fitting, then drill out the short length of steel line all the way through it and through the very end of the tapered end of the fitting. I then put the steel line back into the fitting with an 1/8" of the line protruding from the tapered end of the fitting and tightened it back into the gauge. No leaky, long time.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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