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#1534203 01/25/2024 8:51 PM
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I have a 53 half ton truck and after a short drive my truck won't crank. How do I troublshoot my ignition switch or starter switch? Thanks, Scott

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If it won't crank, it's either the starter switch itself which may have pitted contacts, or possibly the linkage from the pedal to the starter switch. I'm assuming it has the stock stomp starter.
It could also be the starter needing rebuilding. If it lands on a bad spot on the commutator, it may not spin up.
I don't believe it would be the ignition switch, unless someone has converted it to a key operated starter with solenoid.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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What do you mean by "won't crank"? Does the starter not turn over at all? Could be your foot pedal. Turn the key to ON, go under the hood and engage the starter manually by moving the rod from the pedal. Check all your ground connections; battery to frame, engine to frame, etc. Make sure battery is fully charged to 6.5+ volts. Is your battery to starter cable 00 gauge? If not, replace it.

Last edited by Peggy M; 01/25/2024 9:24 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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"Cranking" is the is the action of the starting motor turning the flywheel, which spins the crankshaft. "Starting" is the fuel burning and making the engine run after the starter is disengaged. Troubleshooting a failure to crank is entirely different from correcting a failure to start and run. Can you be a little more specific about what the problem is? Certain situations like a low battery can cause both problems.
Jerry


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Scott,
As others have said, some folks use the term "no crank" it different ways. So assuming you mean the starter won't spin at all and assuming foot start.....
1. Check the battery for voltage. If battery OK and it's not breaking down. (Should be load tested) then...
2. Check ALL battery cable connections, neg and pos, both ends, for loose, corroded, broken. if good, then.....
3. Key off, neutral, E brake on, center plug wire off distributor, push the button on starter down by hand or wooden lever, to see if stater spins. Don't use the foot start mechanism.
4. No spin....and if you did 1 thru 3 correctly.......it's that switch on top of starter or the starter.
Report results before changing anything so we can continue the test procedure.

It's important no tell us of ANY noise from starter area. Also be aware that a bad battery cable connection for pos or neg or ground bolting or bad cell does not show up by just checking battery voltage across battery posts.

"No start" is different as Jerry said. It means the starter is spinning but motor does not fire or it fires but won't run.

If you meant something else, just restate it carefully and we will respond to that.


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Thank you for replying. The linkage works. My wife pushed down on the starter pedal and I watched it contact and push down the switch on the starter. Battery is fully charged. I will remove switch and either replace or repair.

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Thanks. Battery charged. Not sure about the gauge of battery cable. When I turn ignition key and stomp on pedal nothing happens. Stomper linkage good. Bad switch?

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Jerry, thanks for replying. When I stomp on starter pedal and ignition key is on nothing happens. Battery fully charged, stomper linkage and contact with starter switch ok- I watched as someone depressed pedal.
Bad starter switch?

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Thanks. Battery fully charged. Will check connections. When ignition key is turned on and starter pedal depressed nothing happens- no sound.
I will try the test you suggested. Thanks again.

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Move the starter lever under the hood by hand with the key "on" and see what happens.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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I haven't heard back from you about Bartamos' test #3 which tests the switch making electrical contact with the starter motor. Sometimes the heavy copper lugs in the switch fail to make contact with the copper lug on the starter due to wear, corrosion or simply from linkage wear.

Actuate that button on the starter switch by hand. If the button is depressed fully and the starter motor does not spin effortlessly under this no-load condition, then you have a starter switch/starter problem.


~~ Jethro
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Finally getting back to truck. I replaced the switch and followed your suggestions but still nothing. Ignition on, depress starter pedal and nothing happens. No sound. Starter motor?
Thanks.

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i would test the starter switch for power when pressed. Then check the end of the wire at the starter when pressed.

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I am new to working on engines so what's best way to check for power? With a multimeter?
Thanks.

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Sorry about the delay. I replaced the starter switch yesterday and when I depressed the switch by hand nothing happens. No sound. I will test to be certain the switch is getting power from the ignition but it seems my starter may be bad. Are rebuild kits available?

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Yes. There are also options for rebuilding services if you don't have a decent auto electric shop near you.

You can also buy a brand new 6v starter from NAPA for about $80. I just installed one in my truck and kept the original 1950 starter for future rebuilding. Picture below.

Both vendors below sell rebuild parts and offer rebuild services


Then & Now Automotive
447 Washington St
Weymouth, Ma 02188
Ph: 781.335.8860
Fax: 781.335.1925
https://www.then-now-auto.com/


Atwater Kent Temp sending units, coils, fuel sending units, tube radios, vacuum advance, voltage regs, starters 1920s to 1970s (mostly 30s, 40s, 50s)
12 Jacques Street Worcester,
MA, 01603
(508)792-9500
http://www.mykmlifestyle.com
Attachments
IMG_20231018_124630.jpg (80.96 KB, 142 downloads)
IMG_20231018_124757.jpg (71.47 KB, 142 downloads)


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Thanks for the info.
Latest: power to starter switch good. Pulled starter and had it bench checked and it's fine. Replaced starter and nothing. No sound. The mechanic that bench checked it is not impressed with the new parts - starter switch is new- they don't make them like they used to..
Could it be the linkage ?
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20240205_151633.jpg (414.92 KB, 139 downloads)
20240205_151633.jpg (377.35 KB, 141 downloads)

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Will do.

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The linkage should push the button on the switch that makes contact with a brass lug under the switch. .Sometimes the brass lug gets worn from contact(sparking) try to push the button using a pry bar being careful not to damage your new switch


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Ok, Confirm the Thick Black wire is "Positive "? Usually red but not always, that is bolted to the starter? Also, check your ground or Grounds. Those old thin "mesh" type are not a great ground at all and corrode easily. The picture seems like the stomp starter, if no one was inside when picture was taken ( the "relaxed" position should be way further back towards the firewall..


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Grab hold of that rod from the foot stomp with your hand and push the starter button manually. What happens?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
Grab hold of that rod from the foot stomp with your hand and push the starter button manually. What happens?

Make darn sure that the tranny is in neutral before doing this.

It is interesting that our web site changed a word in the previous sentence.

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 02/06/2024 3:41 AM.

'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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Do the headlights and other electrical accessories work? There is probably a loose or dirty connection on the ground side that you haven't found yet.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Check the voltage at the starter terminal while someone pushes the start button. If it drops, then you have a poor connection upstream and you need to pull the battery and ground connections and check/clean them.


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A circuit needs to be complete for something to work. If you've checked the battery post connections, then check the other ends of the cables. With your multimeter, check across each connection: battery post to clamp (positive and negative), battery ground cable to frame, ground strap to engine bellhousing, and ground strap to engine block. If you get more than 1 ohm across any of them, then clean them and reconnect. Connections can be good enough to operate small loads (lights, etc.) but fail to provide enough power for larger loads such as the starter.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Originally Posted by klhansen
If you get more than 1 ohm across any of them, then clean them and reconnect.
1 ohm would limit the current to 6 amps, no where near enough to cause the starter motor to turn. Each connection needs to be way lower than 1 ohm.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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Shaffer1950 pointed out on page 2 that the starter lever was too close to the starter button - practically resting on top of it.

It should look like this when your foot is off the stomper.
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IMG_20240206_164150.jpg (127.58 KB, 121 downloads)


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Thanks. Will look.

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That is what mine looks like. I think I have a bad new starter switch and I found a new old switch on Ebay that I will replace with.

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Realized the battery was 6 years old. Replaced with new 12 volt battery. Started up immediately. Ran rough a few minutes as it hasn't run lately. After 3-4 minutes died.
Might be out of gas but won't start. In other words, no sound when ignition on and floor starter depressed.
Must be something loose?

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Replaced battery as realized it was 7 years old. Started right up. Ran rough and quit after 3-4 minutes. Might be out of gas. Anyway, won't restart. Same issue as before with no sound when ignition on and pedal depressed ( starter bench checked good and starter switch replaced). I know there is power going to the starter via test light. How do I use a multimeter to check volts at starter?
Ignition on, red on starter and black to a good ground?
Thanks.

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This is late but my problem turned out to be bad contact surface between starter switch and starter. Once I cleaned them up it fired right up.
Appreciated all the advice.


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