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#154714 09/06/2007 6:15 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 22
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Apprentice
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 22
I have a 51 Chevy 2 ton dumptruck and currently it has what I believe is the original 216 straight 6 engine in it.

I have no clue as to what the miles are on it since for about 20 some years that I can account for the speedometer has not worked for whatever reason.

I have been considering restoring it and perhaps making it more road worthy and driving it every so often.

Should I stay with the original engine or should/could I put a GM 350 engine it its place?

I look forward to hearing the good and the bad about this.

Thanks
Steve

Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,867
R
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Feb 2006
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Just to throw this out real quick, there is no good or bad either way, its all about personal preference. Your only limited by time, money and patience. What do you plan on using the truck for mainly?

Jeff


My 1953 Chevrolet
1947.1 Gallery
1972 C-10 1/2 Ton & 1972 C-30 1 Ton
Joined: Jun 2007
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Apprentice
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Currently I am trying to decide if I want to use it as a driver or use it more for hauling instead of getting a trailer.

I am not against the 216 it ran well every time I used it.

How long do 216's usually last as far as mileage?

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,792
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,792
A well-built 216 will get the job done, but slowly. If you're planning to use the truck regularly with a full load on it, you'll need to be sure the brakes, steering, etc. are up to the task, as well as making sure the engine is in good shape. Once you get that load of dirt moving, it would be a really good idea to be able to stop and steer reliably. I'd suggest a minimum upgrade to a high oil pressure 235 simply to avoid the routine maintenance chores of keeping the babbit rods adjusted, etc. Heavily-loaded 216's weren't really famous for long life or lots of power.
Jerry


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O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Hey Steve you already know what I think!

If you really want to use the truck, I think you want to first address the brakes. You can make the original brakes work pretty well, but if you are also going to increase the performance you should also upgrade the brakes.

If you plan to move heavy loads and are not real concerned about top speed, the original rear might be okay. If you want to run down the highway with traffic, the stock gears are going to limit cruising speed.

You can improve cruising speed by changing the rear to get better gearing. I have never heard of a gear set available for the original rear that would be an improvement. The other alternative is an overdrive of some sort. A Brownie would be the traditional way to accomplish that, and elsewhere I mentioned a well done small block swap I've seen. That truck does have a Brownie and according to the owner is very good on the highway. I've seen him enough different places I know he runs it all over this area.

If you want to stay with a manual transmission you can use a '55 to '67 (about) V-8 or '64 to '67 six type bell housing AND either modify the stock crossmember and mounts, or replace the crossmember with one from a '54 or '55 1st.

That approach gets your 350 hooked to a stock type 4-speed or a number of other later transmissions and gives you options that might work for you.

The challenge you face is that not a lot of people modify the bigger trucks, so finding someone who has actually done something similar to what you want may be difficult. You may have to figure a lot of things out for yourself.

Someone suggested running a more modern six. A Chevy 261 if you can find one is real close to just a bolt-in swap. Its not a lot bigger than the 216 but it has better oiling and will make a difference.

More work, but looks original and fits the existing bellhousing and transmission is an early GMC motor. A 270 or a 302 will have better oiling, make more power, and in a number ow ways is a superior motor.

More work, and requiring the later bellhousing, is to use the '63 or later 292. This motor is clearly not original to anyone who knows the early motors, but many people will not realize its not original.

Any V-8 swap is going to mean changing the steering. The problem is that the exhaust manifold hits the column. Some guys move it outward to make room, others change the column and box. Another solution is custom headers and there are even some manifold choices that seem to work without trouble. Look for the front dump manifolds from an early 265 for instance.

I hope this all makes sense and maybe even a little of it is helpful. I'm a hot rodder at heart and enjoy seeing others find ways to build the hot rod they want, but as Jeff (RustedNuts) suggested above its your truck and you should do what you want. He is mostly a restorer but still speaks to a committed hot rodder like me.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Dec 2002
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If it is indeed a "6000" series (6100, 6400, or 6500)2 ton, it should have a Loadmaster 235 engine in it, & not a 216.


Spanky Hardy
Collector Of Fine Old G.M. COE Trucks & Antique Holmes Wreckers

1948 Chevrolet 5700 COE Holmes HD W35 Wrecker
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1950 GMC 250 1-Ton
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Apprentice
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When I dedcoded the vin it came up as a 2 ton truck.

So that means I have the 235 in it then?

Is there any way to tell by looking at the motor?

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Yes, post here the casting numbers on the engine and head. And, post the engine ID that is pressed into the block in the ledge to the rear of where the distributor goes into the block.


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