I have my transmission and engine out for rebuild and thought I would take care of the oakie bushing while I have access. The oakie bushing went in without too much force and I thought I caught a major break since I have read about some issues with these fitting into the torque tube. When I tried to fit my yoke into the oakie bushing I hit a hard stop. The yoke does not fit into the oakie bushing. I purchased the bushing from Jim Carter trucks for my truck (53 3100). Not seeing any options for a different size bushing. Has anyone encountered this before? What did you do? I hate to take a gamble and purchase another bushing in hopes that the yoke will fit.
Here are a couple of pictures of the bushing that I removed.
Deegs
Last edited by Deegs53; 04/10/202410:30 PM. Reason: Attached pictures
I had a similar problem earlier this year ,The tube was a 49 with the dowel pins .Ended up taking the rear end apart and pushed the busing out again .I decided to rebuild with the 355 gears and am using the newer tube.Check what you purchased as there are two oakie bushing sizes one for early and one for later.the later one fit my yoke were the earlier one did not ,I also had two yokes to check .You can look under my posts and see the pictures I posted .
Kev, Wow what a nightmare you had to deal with. I hope the bushing comes out easy since it did not give me a hard time going in. I did order the correct one for my truck, or so I think. Maybe somewhere along the line someone installed an older model torque tube in my truck. Don't think that is the case though just wishful thinking on my part.
A older tube will have the dowel pin .I measured the outer part of the bushing and compared to the old bushing taken out and had to file the new bushing for it to fit and it went in nice .I watched a video from jayhawker on YouTube but I should have checked the inner dimension for the yoke before putting it in .Hope you can get your bushing out .i still have not put the bushing back in mine yet so let us know how you make out .I am waiting to put the driveshaft in and shim the pinion bearing first as it may take a few tries from what I have read.
Kev, Thanks for the info on the video Chevy torque tube bushing removal and Oakie installation. I took that guy's idea and put it to the test and it worked. We pulled the Oakie bushing out today. The guy in the video used this to remove the old-style smaller bushing so I was concerned whether this would work with the Oakie bushing but thought I had nothing to lose. See attached pictures. I can't take credit for the welding as my welding skills are not good enough to attempt to weld so close to the torque tube. I do have a friend who can weld two dimes together and you would not see his bead on either side.
ðŸ‘ðŸ‘good job glad you got it out .Now the fun begins all over to put one back in and this time we both have learned to take a lot of measurements as the new ones are not quite a perfect fit.
I just drug out the oakie bushing I got from another stovebolter and the u-jpint yoke to check clearances before I install it.
It seems that the yoke has a step in the diameter and will not slide all the way into the bushing. It goes about half-way in, and I'm assuming that's far enough, but wondering if either of you could confirm that's the way it should be.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin here are some pictures that may help .i have 2 yokes that look the same no step .the bushings themselves have a ridge that are the same on all three that I have.The brass bushings are not all the same one ,the older stlyle 47to 50 will not fit the yoke the other two are for 51/54 the two newer style are from different places and look a little bit different and one is tighter fit and won’t go in as far.
There’s really no “step” in the yoke I have. But it’s a few thousandths larger, enough that it doesn’t go in the bushing all the way to the non-machined part. Maybe an inch or so shy of going all the way in. I can’t get to the driveshaft easily to see if it will slide all the way into the original bushing (or even if it needs to.) Thanks for the pics. Those help. My yoke looks like your last pic.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I guess it depends on the travel of the torque tubes movement it would be nice if someone has a few pictures of the bell moved back with the tube and yoke still attached to see were the yoke sits when it is all connected.
I'll get to that eventually. The yoke only has to move back far enough to disconnect the u-joint and clear the transmission.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
