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Joined: Jan 2000
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'Bolter
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Does an axle need to be machined before installing a speedi sleeve? Could go ahead and install a sleeve as is, but I'm afraid it might make it too big for stock bearing and seals. Pictured below, you can see pitting where the bearing rides, will likely destroy the bearings over time.

This is a replacement axle from a generous stovebolter and I expected to have to sleeve it. It's still much better than my current axle!
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IMG_4896.jpeg (228.71 KB, 239 downloads)


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
I don't think speedi sleeves would be a good choice for a bearing race. I found THIS that supports that opinion. I don't know for sure how hard speedi sleeves are, but being thin, they'd probably have a tendency to loosen up over time with rollers running over them. Speedi sleeves are for restoring seal surfaces. The seals can easily accommodate the slight diameter increase.

That being said, I think you'd be OK to run that axle as-is with a good roller bearing. Yes, it would wear out quicker if the pits weren't there, but they look like they got there from moisture and rust while the axle was sitting with the rollers in the spots where the pits aren't. A quick polish and assembly with a new (or closely inspected) bearing would be my thought.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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'Bolter
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Run as is, that’s good to hear. Rust spots have to be from a bearing sitting for awhile. Machinist gave me a lead to a guy who might do some build up (via welding???). Will check him out in a day or two and see what others say here too.


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: Sep 2010
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K
'Bolter
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Page 17 of Phak1 project journal might help with how he repaired his axle.
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1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Here's the Link to Phil's post. Note that the sleeve he pressed on is WAY thicker than a speedi-sleeve. His axle surface looked pretty much the same as yours, shown in a previous post in his Project Journal thread.
And THIS POST has the part # info for the inner race (sleeve) he used.

Last edited by klhansen; 04/11/2024 8:47 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 734
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'Bolter
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Thanks for the links, very informative. So the best solution would be machining axle to accept the IR1502 sleeve? Gotta do more in depth reading on all that. If I decide to run it as is, the only risk would be premature bearing replacement (I reckon).


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Looks like The Filling Station has the inner races for about $30 each.

I'd think that running as-is might eat the bearing a bit earlier than if the shaft was smooth. No idea how much difference.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 734
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Turning down the axle to fit would be a simple operation that most any machinist should be able to do, right?


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
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I can email you a procedure I wrote on how I did it if you PM me your email address.

Last edited by Phak1; 04/12/2024 11:56 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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'Bolter
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PM sent, and also had some time to study over the linked threads explaining your procedures. If you've come up with an updated or simplified process since those threads...what a great tech tip that would be. thumbs_up


Matthew 6:33

1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55
Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216)
www.truckwithaheart.com

Moderated by  Dusty53, SWEET 

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