The Stovebolt Site Forums The Side Lot Old Dominion Stovebolt Society (MD, VA, West VA, DC, DE and PA) Sewart's "project" for Wrenchfest

Let's start here.
1. Front clip removal.
2. Engine removed, put on engine stand, crankshaft replaced.

Run? Not under it's own power......but, after thinking about it, the pax floor board kinda looks like doing it the Flintstone way may be a possibility, but switching gears and steering may also be huge problem (but yes it does roll). ALSO, changing the crank will also entail modifying the block to accept the newer main bearings.

Don't need a boring machine. Just need a real steady hand and (according to Jerry, "two brain cells to rub together and a dremel tool). I've got the tool but not the cells nor the steady hand. The notch has to be put into the block because that side of the bearing doesn't have the dowel. The cap side does but not the block side. Jerry, did I explain that right?
But, 2 Ton, you already knew that so why am I explaining it to you; oh, wait! Like I told Jerry, I haven't got ANY brain cells to rub together.
S2

PS So, yes, I hope Jerry CAN make it because that means his medical concern will be doing better.


Wrenchfest '24 -- "Potomac Palooza" (MD) 26-28 April 2024

John, all I have to do is put the stand together. If we can "git 'er dun", and Jerry shows up, he'll be able to take the other engine with 'im. So that sounds FATASTICO to moi!!! Thanks!!!!

S2

If the block is stripped down to bare bones, it would be a good time to machine it for a full circle lip seal instead of a rope or 2 piece rubber seal at the rear main bearing. Like this:

www.ebay.com/itm/154260983108

I have several of them on hand at the moment
Jerry

Hrl is anyone actually running this one piece lip seal with success?

And the EBay link is “out of stock” do you have another source?

That's because I just bought the last one that vendor had. Do a search for that part number (417210) seal and you'll find several.

Six in stock with this vendor, at a somewhat higher price:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374410947588?

I have bought six of them in the past few weeks. Prices vary widely for the same seal, so do your homework when shopping for one. Cosmo is running the seal that I fitted to his block, and I know of several others who have done similar installations. It takes me about one hour to do the machining, using a mounting fixture I fabricated for my Van Norman 944S cylinder boring bar. It bolts onto the back of the block using the same bolt holes as the bellhousing. Another advantage is that the seal lip can expand enough to allow the use of a a 3 7/8" "speedy sleeve" if the crankshaft seal surface is pitted or scored.

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding a Van Norman model 777 dual speed, dual feed boring bar. It was a WW II production item, made for the US Army.
Jerry

IHRL is this a possibility on the GMC Block?

I believe the GMC crankshaft has a flywheel flange that prevents a full circle seal from being installed in the proper location. The stovebolt crank has a straight flange that allows a lip seal to slip over the flywheel mounting bolt circle and contact the seal area. The same type of seal setup is used on the late model small block Chevy V8, beginning in the early 1990s, IIRC. Ditto for Ford Diesels, and Caterpillar V8 Diesel engines.

Confirmed- - - -check out the flywheel flange on this GMC 270 boat anchor listed on Ebay:

www.ebay.com/itm/372199684453?

235 crankshaft- - - -the lip seal rides on the 3 7/8" diameter surface at the very back of the crank:

www.ebay.com/itm/315239781392?



Jerry

"If the block is stripped down to bare bones, it would be a good time to machine it for a full circle lip seal instead of a rope or 2 piece rubber seal at the rear main bearing."

Unfortunately, Jerry, the engine that will be pulled won't be stripped down to bare bones. Can't afford the machine work nor the cost to do a round trip journey. I've got the two piece rubber one which I was thinking was better than the rope. The engine I've promised to be waiting for you, however, except for the cam bearings, is.

How in the world does one capture quotes?


S2

With a butterfly net???
Sorry... couldn't help it.

To make the divots for the new style main bearings, the crankshaft will have to be removed- - - -no room to do the grinding for the tabs otherwise. It's about a 1 hour task to strip down a block, and doing anything else during a rebuild is a fool's mission- - - -too many places for bearing-destroying junk to hide. Bring it on- - - -I've seen what the ODSS crew can do when an engine buildup is in the works- - - -they make worker bees in a big hive look lazy by comparison!
Jerry

Well, Jerry, I sure do hope you can be there. Not only to help move things along, but I'll be able to get rid of this torn down engine out of my garage AND, MOST IMPORTANTLY, your better half is doing better.

Jethro, thanks for the TREMEDOUS advise. Hey, while looking over your '54, noticed your grill has seen better days. Is it still like that? If it is, I'll have a white one that seems like it's in better shape in the very near future if I can get the clip off without messing things up. 0$

S2

Thanks for the offer... but... I learned how to drive on this truck 60 years ago. It's the farm truck and has earned every dent and tear (many of which are mine.) I dare not alter its character. See you in Leonardtown.

Now, if you happen to have two 16" rims lying around...

Sorry, Jethro. The original rims were gotten rid of way back in '71. My brother went with chrome wheels, which the spare was stolen while in storage and I need a replacement for.

S2

Is anyone bringing an engine hoist of some kind?

S2

Stewart ... we're working on that ...

Reason I'm asking is cause I BELIEVE I have access to one. It's a "cherry-picker" type and will have to be put on a large trailer or towed. I just have to ask the owner. It's being stored in my yard.

S2

We have an engine hoist. A couple of tractors with front end loaders, too.

Thanks,
though.

Stewart

Check your email. I sent you a message summarizing our discussion yesterday. For those in the same boat as you, here is the list of things to do before we come extract the truck:

1. Clear all items around the truck so it is accessible.
2. Make sure tires are aired up if possible.
3. Drain all fluids from engine and radiator.
4. Assemble engine stand.

Seeya Saturday!

This is going to be one of those late night in the shop project, isn’t it?
Oh boy!!

I recall those days, listening for the frogs in the pond but mostly hearing "shop" sounds. Great memories.