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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,138 Posts1,056,751 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 57 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 57 | Hi, I've searched the forums but I'm still not sure I found the right info.
I have egg-shaped steering balls on the pitman arm and the third arm, basically the two balls that connect to the drag link.
I understand the removal process but I'm having trouble sourcing the ball studs. Most of them I find state "1/2 ton only". I'm not worried about the pitman arm because, according to the parts books, they used the same one from '47-'50. The problem is the third arm - one was used for the 1/2 tons and another part# was used for the 3/4 - 1-1/2 tons.
Has anyone had luck sourcing these ball studs for the 3/4 tons?
Thanks, Shawn
Shawn
1950 3600 Pickup, 1958 Plymouth Belvedere
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,120 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,120 | Try the Filling Station. Link Note that this listing shows "except 1/2 ton". They have others as well.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 57 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2011 Posts: 57 | Thanks Kevin,
It looks like that item is only for the tie rod ends. I did some checking and I think their SA-156 or SA-156T will work for the drag link balls. The SA-156 would have to be swedged or riveted over after the old balls are drilled out. The SA-156T can be bolted into place after drilling out the old ones. Funny that they made the tie-rod balls replaceable from the factory but not the pitman arm and third arm balls. I'll post back how it turns out.
Shawn
1950 3600 Pickup, 1958 Plymouth Belvedere
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,120 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,120 | I know that I replaced the balls for the drag link on both ends on my truck. I'm not sure if they're the same for 3/4 and 1/2 ton, but I was able to press them out and used the "weld-in" balls that I pressed in place and peened over. I used the SA-156 from the Filling Station.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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