Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
9 members (Gdads51, jmoore, Danielbolt, JW51, Rusted Nut, 2-Ton, GA Boy, cmayna, 1 invisible),
64
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,169 Posts1,057,041 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 | would it be hard to replace the wood if i wanted it all new wood on my 48 2 ton hoist flatbed??? what kind of wood would i need to get??? support beams are great talking about the long bed boards. thanks guys truck should arrive tomarrow sat ill get pics off to peg soon as poss. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Depends on how it is attached. Southern yellow Pine that has been treated is the best. | | | | | Joined: May 2002 Posts: 155 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2002 Posts: 155 | Aptung is another good wood..this is what Freuhauff uses on their semi flatbeds, lasts forever..
Geoff
68 GMC 3800 56 JD420C w/JD90 Loader
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I would avoid the use if salt or pressure treated wood. if all you need is a work truck and don't care about looks then it should be fine, but with use and time it gets ugly, I think more so than white oak with a good finish, or some of the more expensive woods like Aptung.
On my 48 2 ton I will use quarter sawn white oak with a yet-to-be decided finish.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Apitong...it doesn't finish well and is very expensive. Used primarily for trailer floors. Southern Yellow Pine is the preferred flooring material for truck bodies. Withstands TX heat and moisture if treated. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Apitong...it doesn't finish well and is very expensive. Used primarily for trailer floors. Southern Yellow Pine is the preferred flooring material for truck bodies. Withstands TX heat and moisture if treated. It all gets ugly if it's used. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 | dave, how do you actually "replace" the bed wood with new boards??? i knws theres a band of metal around the wood but how do you replace the long boards?? support lumber looks fine thanks | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I would say remove the bolts or screws holding them down, pull the board out and replace.
Let's see some pictures when you get the truck.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 | truck will be deliverd in the am, will get pics out to peg monday pm stay tuned thanks grigg | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 33 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 33 | Hello,Our 1942 1&1/2 ton came with the old yellow pine the previous owners painted it.But the truck never sit's out side.I have a couple small area's to replace but it sure has held up well.If it's for use or show will depend on how much you want to spend.Good luck and looking forward to the pic's.Chad | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 | ok guys can anyone give me pointers on bed wood replacement on my truck??? where to buy the wood, looks like the frame around the bed wood is 1 pc??? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | What you need is 2x6 shiplap #2YP. It should screw into the steel crossmembers assuming they are steel. Buy pressure treated materail if possible otherwise motor oil is a decent substitute unless it's for show but were talking work truck here. Use self tapping 3/16 x 2 torx head screws especially made for this use. The screws are available at any fastener supply along with the driver bits, get several and put them in with an air impact, drilling the wood before inserting the screw. Clamp them into the floor area but allow a little room between ea for expansion just the same as you'd do on a deck. The outer frame and crossmembers are likely one welded assembly and shouldn't present a problem. None of that needs to be disturbed assuming that is what you have like a modern platfrom body would be constructed. You can chisel or unscrew the fasteners used on the floor now. I always torched them off because it was fast and effective. Don't leave the side pieces open but tuck them under the steel perimeter by routing the materail away and use only full length lumber, i.e, no splice joints. Cut the length approx. 1/4-3/8" short depending on the bed length to allow for linear expansion. If you put the lumber in too tightly it will pop all your screws and even twist steel crossmembers. It is a pretty straight forward job and you shouldn't have any trouble. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2007 Posts: 110 | ok dave... i looked last night and the cross beams on my bed are wood, there in perfect shape but there wooden, ill attempt to replace the bed this fall as all the work has to be done outside, need to try and locate the bed wood first here in austin texas then go from there. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Just use carriage bolts instead of the screws. | | |
| |