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Took my lock apart so I could find the code.The key code... on my 1958 locks, the # is on the plunger . Take the lock apart just to the spring. The code is stamped here in the picture. Just for those interested...I can clip new keys from code.

What method did you use to clean up the rust before putting it back together?

No method. Just reassembled. Spring was broken at the end. Still enough there to operate. Gun oil.

If any of the Stovebolt Collective need keys made for your trucks, let me know. I am retired master locksmith and need to work some.
Thanks!!

Semi-related question: how hard is it to rekey these locks? I have a key that fits my ignition and several door locks that don't match it (or each other).

I hate to spend $100+ on a set of matched cylinders, but I have not found any reliable resources for getting the parts to rekey them myself.

Do you have a source you recommend? Or if I sent you the cylinders, could you be paid to rekey them?

A real locksmith that has been in business for a long time will have a box full of pins that fit GM locks. Simple job. Guitplayer may have the parts needed.

Back in the 80s, I re-keyed GMs that someone had replaced a door lock and they wanted them back on 1 key door, 1 key IGN. Seems I remember ALL lock making a universal keyway for the IGN that one could key to the door locks or vice versa to make 1 key operation.(1960`s-when 1 key Door 1 key Ign).

Now to re-keying ...it would take a GM wafer re-keying kit. Replacement GM face caps. The other thing to consider is that these from the 50`s are different animal than the later 60's versions if you were looking for reliable sources to re-key. I'd consider getting locks ordered in a group, keyed alike. But they are new, so there is that quality thing. But most shops, if you have one close, should be able to fit 2 doors locks to your IGN. key.

I sold all my equipment back in 90s but still have my old Curtis dial clipper. Just found, on the eBay, the correct carriage for the 50s. I have the Southern Lock and Key Blank keys. So I can clip out a factory key and send if you have a code. Or make a key w/o code... if you send me the lock.

I was specifically looking at/for 50s info and having trouble. There is a lot more for 60s+ locks.

Let me gather all my parts in the same place and see exactly what I have. It occurs to me that I am not 100% sure my ignition switch/cylinder are original. If not, they key might not even be the same blank like I was assuming.

Thank you for the info so far. I will shoot you a PM if I still have questions once I have all the parts in front of me.

Guitplayer, non GM?

Non-Gm? I can file out a key to just about anything with the lock and key blank + rat tail file.
Automotive pre-1990
Back in the day , quicker than most could unlock one with a tool.
Fibonachua if you have a few door locks, we may be able to use wafers from those to match your
IGN. key. Its not ideal but failing to find a rekey kit. Take some pics.

Guitplayer,


I sent you a PM.

Got it. This day and age,it might be easier, quicker and cheaper to mail locks to me that need keys for. Depending on where you live. I know where I am, getting to a locksmith that "might" be able to make a key is at least a 3 hour round trip. Seems like a lifetime ago cause it is, 40 years ago(1984) I`d bet you I had pulled 1000 GM wheels to get at the IGN. to make a key from code. The GM side bar lock is one of best designs. All others (Ford Chrysler Japan AMC) keys could be made by a technique called "impressioning."

Thanks guys. Locks heading my way.

I ran into the the inherit problem with the side bar GM lock.
The spring cover cap that retains the springs and wafers is pressed in the
pot metal of the lock body and supposed to be held in place with the flange on the cover tabs.
These eventually will work one side up and the lock basically is locked within itself.
Meaning the clearance to spin/turn is gone. The key that did work no longer does or gets odd to operate then fails.
So most times attempts are made to peen that cover down with some side pot metal on the lock body.
I dealt with many . Red sent me his IGN for his 1950. Yep , thats what happened.
Here are some pics when I opened it up. They(whoever before) tried to peen it down, but they also removed a spring and wafer.
I put in a new key core. There was a key code on his original door lock.
The lock was in the wrong clocked position.
He now has keys . One for the IGN and one for doors however.

Thanks for the info on that.
A question. Would it be possible to carefully use JB weld to secure the cover when rekeying a lock? I am considering rekeying my ignition lock and/or the glove box lock to match the door. That assumes I can find the correct tumblers. Restaking the cover in place is definitely an iffy proposition, IMO.

No. JB weld has been around awhile . If it would 'have worked,
we would have used it .
Glue of any kind near a lock is not good. The JB would wind up in a
not good place.
1/2 of the time the cover cap will stay on from the factory. Its designed to.
But key in and out , pushing the springs up to it causes it to pop up...sometimes.
The locksmith before me tried to peen it down , but broke off part of the pot metal.
The key core I put in Red`s lock ,I peened down proper.

Another positive thing. I found a keying kit for these.
So I can key Reds IGN and door the same when it arrives.

I can share what a properly Peened" spring cover will look like.

Does the key for the doors normally operate the ignition switch too if they are original? My truck came from a wrecking yard with no keys. The truck is a 1955 series 1.

Yes , there should be a code on the keyed door lock.

The lock comes out after you pull a retainer from behind the door weatherstrip alongside the lock.
Here's a shot of where to find the key code. PM me with the code number you find and I may be able to provide a key (I have a couple hundred different ones.) Alternatively a locksmith should be able to cut a key with that code. It'll take a Briggs & Stratton B10 blank.

Just from personal experience, the chance of the lock still having the same tumblers that matched the code after all these years is slim. Most of those locks had a clip on cover that allowed access to the tumblers. The tumblers were each a two part combination with a longer to shorter "follower" with a countering part that springs pushed on. Each combination totaled the same length. When the key was inserted, the parting line between all tumbler pairs lined up. The code on the lock originally could be looked up in a master book that told which pair went in each particular slot. Anyway, a good locksmith should easily be able to make all of your locks work with the same key.

Yes, the locks can be re-keyed, but it's not a trivial process. So the chances of them NOT matching the code is slim, IMO. I just got done doing one, matching my door lock (pictured above - which I'm sure was original) to a replacement used ignition switch. The tumblers are really only available from a used lock, and I managed to bugger up 5 of the 6 little teeny tumbler springs on the donor ignition switch cylinder. Guitplayer generously offered to do it for me, but I dug in and did it myself.

I figured out the difference on 47-51 drivers and passenger door latches. I have since modified a new drivers latch (both originals were completely worn out) to lock with a door key from the outside. The problem I have run into is no new vendor will offer a complete set (ign, door and glove box) with an extra door lock all keyed the same. Now I want to get one door lock re-tumbled to match the rest of the new set. Alot of the old school locksmiths around here have since closed since covid, and I live in an area where we are the biggest metro city 300 miles to the east of Seattle.
It sounds like I should intentionally put the odd lock on the passenger side, being I can unlock drivers door, get in, start the truck with one key and reach over to unlock passenger door when that scenario happens(no more gentlemen actions here). Yay... womens lib?

I think you are good with the drivers door and ign being the same.
You could always leave the passenger key in the glove box.
If you ever need to give someone access to the truck without being able to start it,
that might work.

My keys are from RonFrancis wire works.

The world is changing. First off, does this help you out? https://www.premierstreetrod.com/detail/CPA-790/195559_Chevrolet_Truck_Complete_Lock_Set.html

Back to my youth...I grew up around a Dodge dealership. My dad was service manager for many years. After school, I would walk down and wait for him to get off work. Soon I was helping in the parts counter and doing whatever I could to help. In comes the box with the code book, the lock parts, a "key punch tool", a bunch of softer blanks that was easier eating for the key punch tool, and instructions. Being a very curious kid, this was like candy for me and everyone else was very happy that I was willing to learn it. Granted, the locks with the snap on cover for the tumblers were easier, and yes, I remember those little springs that wanted to bail and hide. I was grateful for the bag full of replacements.

Anyway, the comments here made me look up the old school locksmiths I knew from years passed and sure enough, it appears to be another diminishing service. I meant no source of frustration with my comments. I had my truck keyed to match a new ignition switch years ago even to the point of having to use a passenger side handle on the driver's side with the lock upside down. I just assumed the years had changed most locks from their original coding.

Anyway, I hope the link has what you need and helps you out.

anyone needing lock work is welcome to send them to me.
Retired master locksmith. Started in 1984.

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